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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 69 camaro with a 10 bolt rear end. I believe it to be an 8.2. I have had the car only 1 1/2 yrs. I would like to at this point just to make sure the rear end has oil in it. The rear pumpkin looks as though the cover gasket has leaked and is pretty grundgy. On the passenger side near the top is a plastic feeder tube or breather tube with a little rubber cap on it. What is it and what's it for? Otherwise all I see is a plug on the passenger side upper half. I would like to drain out the old oil and put in new (what kind or brand)? And replace the cover gasket. Would I be better off buying a Moser 10 bolt cover, for better support and ease of changing differential oil? Eventually I would like to rebuild this rear and put in an Eaton posi. I am a novice so please be kind and be specific on your instructions. I have gotten a lot done from all the help from these forums. You guys rock! :yes: :thumbsup:
 

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The only way to get the oil out is to take the cover off. If you loosen all the bolts, the lower ones more than the top, and pry on the bottom, the oil will come out, fairly slowly if you're careful.

I would get the outside as clean as possible first.

Then a new gasket, and fill it thru that plug on the pass side. It will hold about 2 1/2 quarts. No need for posi lube in an non-posi rear.

They make "pumps" that will screw onto the lube bottle and pump the oil thru a hose to make it easier to fill. I use one from mercury marine that also works good on my outboard.
 

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As said, you'll get the oil drained by pulling the cover.You're best bet is to drive the vehicle for 10-15 miles to heat the oil.

Then, park it nose up in the driveway, pull the cover, and let the oil drain over night and through the work day, if you can.

Get a new gasket, BraKleen, some paper towels, unless you have an old bath towel, book reads 3.5 pints of oil, but 3 quart bottles should do it, you can always take back the unused qt if not opened. Clean the old gasket and grease off both the cover & axle.

While the cover is off, you will see two holes midway up on the outer edge of the axle. These holes are for lubing the carrier bearings. oil is splashed up onto the cover, the oil travels down the ledge into these holes and lubes the bearings. Check to make sure these holes and the remaining path to the bearings are clean free of gunk. be sure to clean the bearings of the gunk as you don't want to 'roll' the bearings through the gunk.

Use SAE 80W90 lube. To see if you have a positive traction rear axle before you remove the cover, raise up one rear wheel, trans in neutral, and rotate the raised wheel. If it is easy to turn, then you have an open rear differential, non-posi. The GM additive will not be necessary.

If the wheel does have resistance in turning, alot resistance, then it would be safe to assume the axle has a posi carrier. More evidence by viewing a set of plates with springs inside the carrier. GM additive will be needed, one bottle per oil change. Synthetic oil, maybe Amsoil, might be the route to venture as Amsoil includes the additive.

Check to make sure the brake backing plates are dry from oil. If oil evident, then now is the time to replace the axle seal. You didn't mention anything about oil at the wheels, so it would be safe to say they are okay, otherwise, I believe you would have mentioned it.

Replace with a clean cover, the OE cover is fine, you're not making a gazillion ft/lbs of torque. Make sure the mating surfaces of both the cover are free of oil and foreign material. You might run a bead of RTV, 1/8 inch diameter, inside of the bolt holes on both the cover and axle before bolting it up. Let it cure for a couple hours or more, overnight would be good, before adding oil to the plug on the passenger side. Level out the car before filling. When oil starts to drip out, its full. No great amount of torque is needed on the cover bolts, just good & snug.

If positive traction rear axle equipped, proceed to a large parking lot and do several figure-8's to lube the plates. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks a lot guys for your help. It's spring and I didn't want to get into something that would take a long time, like tearing out my rear end. I will get oil, gasket and more brake kleen. I guess this will be one way to see how much if any oil is in the pumpkin. Did you use anything special to get the baked on dirt and oil off the exterior?
 

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One thing I would add is to break the fill plug loose before you drain the oil,it's no fun draining the oil and finding out you can't get the fill plug out to refill it. being in there for 30 years they can be rusted in there pretty good
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One thing I would add is to break the fill plug loose before you drain the oil,it's no fun draining the oil and finding out you can't get the fill plug out to refill it. being in there for 30 years they can be rusted in there pretty good
That is why I also asked if it would be good to get the Moser cover. I have not tried yet to break the fill plug loose yet but I can see that happening. Plus it looked as though it would be easier to empty and fill. Still any suggestions on what to use to clean and loosen up the gunk off of the housing (WD40, PBB, etc...)?
 

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Good point to see if the fill plug can be removed. Never thought of it, but could be a good reason to get a Moser cover.

As far as cleaning the axle housing, I should have made myself clearer. I meant to say the cover flange of the housing should be clean. What's up front & ahead on the axle is a mute point. For the RTV to stick to the surface to seal, the surface has to be oil-free. Either Brakleen, lacquer thinner, or alcohol will remove oil and evaporate leaving a clean surface.

A 3/8 inch square drive, the end of an extension, fits nicely into the fill plug, providing all the dirt is removed from plug for full insertion of the extension.

No, you don't have to leave the axle drain over night, but you do get rid of most the dirty oil. And no, you don't have to leave the RTV set overnight either, but the leaving it overnight certainly does help. Let he RTV set up for 15-20 minutes before putting on the cover. If it doesn't set/cure, it will let you know it later cause the gasket will not hold oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Everett, I understood what you ment about cleaning the housing gasket surface. I mean the whole outer housing as mine is covered with dried dirt and oil. Even all over my fill plug. But mine is a square pipe head not a plug hole for a 3/8ths drive. Also another question. Should there be any play in the axle, if when the rear is jacked up off the ground and you pull on the wheel/tire in and out? I was adjusting my emergency barke last night and felt a slight play in it. Just wondering if that is normal?
 

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Use engine degreaser to clean the outside of the housing. High pressure water works best, but a garder hose will take a lot of it off.

If you get one of the after market covers you can not use the fill hole as a gauge to tell if it is full. Those covers have the hole higher than it is suppose to be and you will end up with about 6 to 8 quarts in the rear end before it runs out the hole. The hole in the side is a guage to tell you when it is full. When oil runs out you have enough in it. It usually only takes just over 2 quarts of 80W90 GL5 oil.
 

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Thanks Everett,
You're welcome.
But mine is a square pipe head not a plug hole for a 3/8ths drive. Also another question.
Use a 1/2 open wrench or an 8-point socket.
Should there be any play in the axle, if when the rear is jacked up off the ground and you pull on the wheel/tire in and out? I was adjusting my emergency barke last night and felt a slight play in it. Just wondering if that is normal?
Yes, there will be some play side-to-side. Usually about an 1/8 inch or less. The end play of the shaft from the axle gear to the differential pinion shaft. A C-clip is the item locking the shaft into the carrier.
 

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Get a big piece of cardboard or a tarp to lay down on at the carwash
and blast that thing awhile. Take a long screwdriver too, to scrape crap while you wash. Be sure to wear safety glasses so you can cuss about not being able to see a damthing when the crap flies back in your face.
The sythetic gear oil supposedly helps eliminate more frictional losses, as well as usually having the posi additive. It also costs more. Must be better huh.
If your fill plug doesn't come out easily, before you round the head of it off buy an 8 point impact socket, set the socket on the plug and commence beating on the socket to loosen the plug some. Those square headed plugs are malleable iron, not steel. Throw it away and put a steel plug in.
my 2 cents
Tim
 
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