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Discussion Starter #1
Hi-
Need some tips for distributor installation...

I just replaced timing chain, cam etc. Timing marks on cam and crank are aligned when at TDC for CYL#1.

Given that #1 is at TDC and the Cam and Crank marks are aligned, I am assuming I can put the distributor in making sure the oil pump shaft engages properly. Where the distributor rotor ends up pointing to S/B #1 and then follow the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwize rotation.

Is this correct?

Or do I need to rotate the engine and feel for compression on #1 and then install?
 

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Yes; either rotate the engine placing your finger over #1 spark plug hole or ensure both valve are closed by looking at the valve train and not in overlap where both valves are slightly open such as viewing #6 Cylinder.

Generally most cam installers will align the Cam and Crank Sprocket markings facing each other to ensure accuracy rather then attempting to place the aligning marks in the top position of the engines cycle which is the correct position for #1 to fire. As the cam rotates at 1/2 per engine revolution and if you have aligned the cam and crank sprockets marks facing each other the engine will have to be rotated 360 degrees.

After ensuring #1 is at TDC and not overlap install the distributer such that when seated the Rotor is pointing directly at the water pump shaft thereby splitting the engine exactly in two or along the center line. Generally but depending on Distributer models, for the GM distributer to slide easily into the Oil Pump Grove, the oil pump shaft grove should be pointing at #1 Cylinder. After market distributors, such as Mallory and Accel, may have the Oil Pump Shaft Slot aligned with the rotor.

Following this procedure ensures that you do not install the distributer 180 Degrees off Cycle causing the engine to backfire as the valves are on Overlap; also, the rotor will be pointing in a direction that will allow you room to turn the distributer without the vacuum advance mechanism interfering with other components and the Wiring harness will fit neatly into the distributer cap.

The engine should start e mediately providing you have primed the fuel pump and pored at shot of gas down the carb. If it tends to hesitate advance the distributer.

NOTE: When turning the engine over use a Socket on the Damper bolt with all Spark Plugs removed and avoid turning the engine backwards as you may loosen the Damper bolt; however, the damper bolt is usually torqued around 80 lbs and it should not take anymore then 35 lbs of torque to turn the engine by hand. One main error is attempting to rotate the engine backwards using the Damper Bolt when the plugs are installed thereby loosening the bolt.
 

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Following this procedure ensures that you do not install the distributer 180 Degrees off Cycle causing the engine to backfire as the valves are on Overlap; also, the rotor will be pointing in a direction that will allow you room to turn the distributer without the vacuum advance mechanism interfering with other components and the Wiring harness will fit neatly into the distributer cap.

The engine should start e mediately providing you have primed the fuel pump and pored at shot of gas down the carb. If it tends to hesitate advance the distributer.
The rotor can point in any direction and you can still install the distributor with the VA can in the clear. It rotates independent of the distributor body.
 

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onovakind67 I agree with you but I'm describing the method used to install a distributer in the stock position. Also by taking the time to install a distributer in the stock position, after a cam installation, and turning the engine by hand you have the opportunity to feel for any unwanted rubs in the cycle :eek:))
 

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The rotor can point in any direction and you can still install the distributor with the VA can in the clear. It rotates independent of the distributor body.
Yes that is correct...untill one starts to turn the dizzy to adjust timing, and the vac advance hits the inlet manifold..
Which then means pulling the dizzy again and relocating
 

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Yes that is correct...untill one starts to turn the dizzy to adjust timing, and the vac advance hits the inlet manifold..
Which then means pulling the dizzy again and relocating
There are 8 firing positions on the rotating mechanism, any one of which will fire any cylinder. This means that every 45° a cylinder will fire. There are 13 ways to put the distributor in the hole, one every 27.7°. You should never have to rotate the body more than about 25° to get a correctly timed spark to any post. If you have your VA can up against something, back it up and swap the wires over one post.
 

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back it up and swap the wires over one post.
If the HT leads have been cut to length to be tidy...that creates a problem also...
Simpler just to setup in the correct postion then go from there..do it once do it right...
And If it is done the same way each time..one doesnt EVER run into these issues.
K.I.S.S.
 

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If the HT leads have been cut to length to be tidy...that creates a problem also...
How does that create a problem? All my distributor caps have eight equally spaced identical terminals. If you cut the wires so short that you can't rotate the distributor 25° in either direction you will have problems
 

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I just replaced timing chain, cam etc. Timing marks on cam and crank are aligned when at TDC for CYL#1.

Given that #1 is at TDC and the Cam and Crank marks are aligned, ...
When the marks are aligned, you are at TDC on cylinder 6. When the marks both point to 12:00, you are TDC on #1.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is abosuletly correct. I followed the valve train train operation during hand rotation of the engine and verified this fact.

Thanks....
 
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