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Discussion Starter #1
i know they say pictures are worth a 1000 words, but then again these are not great pictures. i have the opportunity to buy these, but noticed there is some rust on the back end and don't really know what that may mean... oh yea, any advice on what i fair price might be would be interesting to hear. thank you


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Jim - They look in very good condition. The surface rust on the mounting plate can either be removed or the plate replaced if you want. The Low Fuel Warning Light Module looks also in great shape.

You can bench test the temp, fuel & amp with a multi meter. Oil pressure can be tested with a pump and the fitting.

If they test out they would be a good find. There should be a paper sticker on the front with a two digit broadcast code and an assembly date stamped in black ink across that.

If you are adding gauges to the vehicle it is a one or two day project.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #3
any idea if there's a standard bench test procedure around here?

thanks for your advice.... :yes:
 

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Yeah there used to be one. I can write one up if Everett's is no longer here.
 

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I am in for the bench test.
Brian, me too; would be very grateful if you manage to find Everett's write-up on the bench-test methodology. Did a search but couldn't find it.....
Have been trying to test the low fuel module on my own gauges, and am getting unusual readings, so want to make sure I'm not missing something.
 

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Okay I'll look at my archives and pull an official one together.
But here is the quick flea market pocket tester - A 9 volt battery bench test:

Using the square volt battery case, should give you an idea if the AMPMETER and the TEMP gauges are alive. A second or two is all it takes, so don't dry the thing in place.
AMPMETER:
Touch the positive battery post on one poll and neg to the ground and the needle should deflect one direction, move positive to the other poll and needle should deflect in the other.

TEMP:
Do the same procedure for TEMP gauge, movement in one then the other indicates a good gauge.

OIL:
Only way to test OIL gauge is with a compressor fitting and a small supply tank filled with air and a relief valve. Once pressurized the gauge should peg at the extreme. AS you release pressure from the tank the gauge should fall.

FUEL:
Fuel gauge needs an potentiometer to send various Ohm's zero to 90 to test the full range. You can use a fuel tank sender as well as the 5 buck Radio Shack part to do this.

Good for now?
 

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Good for now?
Absolutely, and thanks for quick reply! :beers: It was just the low fuel sender that I was having trouble with, the others are all OK (even used a hand pump to check the oil pressure gauge) but I'll get a potentiometer from radio shack next weekend and use it with the multimeter to see what happens.
 

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For the LFWM - Low Fuel Warning Module, if 1969 you can hook a light to the yellow lead and power the other lead to the bulb. When the Ohm's drop below 20ish the module grounds the yellow lead activating the bulb. 68 was the reverse, the yellow powers up.

If the unit is dead Classic Headquarters http://classichq.com/ makes a great reproduction with socket for mounting. And there is an aftermarket unit that allows you to set the point where the warning light activates from M & H Electric Fab. http://www.wiringharness.com/
 

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Thanks for the additional info Brian - not sure if my gauges are from a '69 or a '68 - so hopefully the low fuel module will behave when I test it and work properly, so I can tell which one it is!
 

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There should be a paper sticker on the from of the green shell with a production code and build date stamped on it. Are the red and black wires on the LFWM thin or thick?
 

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There should be a paper sticker on the from of the green shell with a production code and build date stamped on it. Are the red and black wires on the LFWM thin or thick?
Brian, the console is buried deep in a stack of boxes over at my storage unit, but here's a picture of the back of the gauges that I had in my photobucket album. I can't make out the broadcast code on the sticker, but you can just see the low fuel module.....
 

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It's a PA but the area where the date stamp is most likely is worn off. The module looks like a 69, do you remember what color is the circuit board on the module? White is a 69.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
about to get into the bench test... looks like mine is from a 69 from the White circuit board on the Low Fuel Module...
edit: the initial test confirms that my BATT and TEMP gauges move with a little potential :)
 

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