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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in need of some new wheel tubs for my ’68 convertible. My question is are the Detroit Speed DSE tubs the best option out there with their 2-3/4” width? I see there are other complete wheel well housings available that give you 2” more width but they include the inner and outer wheel well for a similar price. I‘d like to run a wider tire but do not plan on running drag radials or anything like that. I’m more interested in ease of install and quality of the sheet metal. Since I need both inner and outer wheels wells I wonder if I can save a couple of bucks going with a different brand. So I would appreciate your guys thoughts or other options y’all might prefer. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You and get some good tires under there without all the expense and tearing up the car, will another inch or 2 make a difference? Will it interfere with your top mechanism? JMO
I wasn’t originally planning on tubbing out the car. As I started chipping away at the undercoating I found out the original wheel wells are pretty well rusted so figured that if I’m going to replace them I might as well upgrade? I think I’d have to notch the tubs in the top to make the convertible top fit but I’ve got no experience doing this.
 

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1968 Camaro LS swap, TH350 FMFVB, 5000 stall, 12 bolt w/ 35 spline and spooled 4.10's
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Depends on your want and planned use...bigger IS better, but what tires do you want/plan to run ?

I have "stock" wheel wells and 275/60R15's... It dead hooks at the track using some home built CalTracs...BUT, a pair of fatties out back ALWAYS look good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Depends on your want and planned use...bigger IS better, but what tires do you want/plan to run ?

I have "stock" wheel wells and 275/60R15's... It dead hooks at the track using some home built CalTracs...BUT, a pair of fatties out back ALWAYS look good.
Honestly I do not have any tires plans. That part of the project was so far down the road in my mind I barely thought about it. I don’t think the car will be a track killer by any means but I did see a ‘68 on 315’s that looked pretty sweet.
 

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1968 Camaro LS swap, TH350 FMFVB, 5000 stall, 12 bolt w/ 35 spline and spooled 4.10's
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OK, so 315's are about 12.5" wide (stock well is about 11")... now the tire should fit with that 2" wider well... BUT, is the correct wheel off-set available in the wheel Mfg. that you want ?

Mine measured roughly 6" from drum face to inner well, and roughly 5" from drum face to lip. 8's with 4.5" BS center my wheel almost perfect... if using my measurements, and your 2" wider well, I'm guessing a 6"-6.5" BS wheel is what you may want with a 12" wheel.....BUT YOU NEED TO MEASURE FIRST TO BE SURE !!!
 

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From what I understand about your car, you will have to remove the quarter panels because they were put on wrong. If the wheelhouses have rust holes they need to be replaced. Now is the time to mini tub the car if that is what you want. Nobody has ever regretted doing the modification.

It takes a little more work to add mini tubs to a convertible. With the right modifications you will lose nothing but a small amount of trunk space. The top will still completely close inside the trunk with the right modifications.

Take into consideration that you should modify the rear suspension, shorten the rear axle, modify the rear seat, and a new gas tank is desirable.

I used Dyna Corn mini tubs. Detroit Speed costs more but they provide templates to cut the frame rail and trunk pan.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sounds like I need to do a bit more research on offsets and wheel options. I think tp_smith summed up my thoughts pretty concisely. Since I have to replace the tubs anyways and go through all that work I figured I might as well upgrade, even if I leave the stock width tires on I’ll always have the option later on.
I did read about narrowing the seat and fuel tank which aren’t deal breakers since the seats needs reupholstery and the tank would have to be swapped out for one compatible with fuel injection. The rear axle I’m still deciding on. I hear the stock 10 bolts aren’t worth the rebuild and I should track down a 12 bolt or 8.5” 10 bolt. Not to mention the rear suspension is shot with both springs broken so perhaps coils will be in the cars future?
Just trying to take it one step at a time and get the car patched up and fixed before going too far down the rabbit hole.
So sounds like Detroit speed might be worth the extra $ for the templates since it will be my first attempt at mini tubs.
 

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If you are replacing the suspension anyway good time to go to a narrowed rearend which takes advantage of the new found space in the wheel wells, a 4 link maybe? If you go with a 4 link, you can buy a housing with the perches already welded on or a end to end unit that matches your suspension. Of course if you are doing that and want rear disc brakes, now is the time to do it. Then you need a new master cylinder to work with it.

Regardless of your choice on suspension and rearend, you will want to decide your end goal for brakes before you order wheels though to make sure you can fit what you want in the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you are replacing the suspension anyway good time to go to a narrowed rearend which takes advantage of the new found space in the wheel wells, a 4 link maybe? If you go with a 4 link, you can buy a housing with the perches already welded on or a end to end unit that matches your suspension. Of course if you are doing that and want rear disc brakes, now is the time to do it. Then you need a new master cylinder to work with it.

Regardless of your choice on suspension and rearend, you will want to decide your end goal for brakes before you order wheels though to make sure you can fit what you want in the wheel.
I was thinking the four link would be male form a nicer ride and a more pleasant driving experience all around. I have to dig into the forum a bit more to find out what everybody’s favorite options are. I see there are bolt in kits, complete frames, and custom options out there, just need to research what would work best for me. I’m already sold on disk breaks. I don’t think drums on any car in modern times makes sense anymore. Not to mention ever car I’ve ever had him drums has failed me at least once.
 

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Since you seem to lean towards building a pro touring type car. You might want to read Mr. Steves build thread.
2 Sons an LT5 and our 69 Camaro project

You should think seriously about putting your car on a jig. You have a convertible with no support from the roof. It sounds like you are going to remove the quarter panels, wheelhouses and cut the frame rails.
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You are not going to have much support after you cut all that stuff out.
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On a convertible there is a bracket that has to be modified that is welded to the mini tub inner wheelhouse. It is not a big deal.

It is the one held on by the bar clamp.

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Some metal has to be removed and the bracket welded back together.

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400 Moser 9” DSE mini tubs
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DSE takes most of the guesswork out of the equation.
If I had more time, and supply chain issues were not a factor, I would have done the quadralink.
It eliminates the spring issue and gives you more liberty with backspace.
Im trying to get the most out of my KLUDGE while I can and hope my Dad gets to ride in it ….he’s done better in the last 2 months, and at 82 that’s been a relief.
 
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