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I have 2 pinhole leaks in my radiator-upper driver side front. I have seen stop leak products at auto stores. Is this a permanent or temporary fix? How does it hold up-good or not so good? How about soldering it? What solder would be best? I remember back in high school-1980 graduate-my friend put a couple of Bayer aspirin in his radiator-I thought he was nuts-but he said it works,but that is not an option for me. I eventually plan on getting a new radiator,but i dont see having the $ for that until at least spring. Looking forward to some replies.Thanks Jim.
 

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I have used it with success, but it is a patch at best. Get it soldered or replace it if you can. The stop leak stuff it really a band aid, not a cure.

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57 Plymouth Savoy in my family since new, just cosmetically restored, 93 S-10 waiting on the 80 Dodge Lil' red Express clone truck to be built then one s_10 for sale, Angie's mechanic and designated Vette cusser.
 

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"Stop Leak" type products have the tendancy to clog up the heater core. Something to think about.

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69 Chevelle SS
Camaro Parts Network, http://www.camaro1.com
 

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Two "Bar's Leaks" pellets have gone into the radiator of every car and truck made in the U.S. for the last thirty years, to ensure there are no tiny leaks at hose connections, etc. Don't know about other products, but the "Bar's Leaks" will NOT clog a heater core. If a leak is not corrosion-related (so it doesn't keep enlarging), it's very effective.

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green
 

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I used to think of stop leak products as snake oil. Now I'm a believer. They will work for very small leaks, such as pinholes. 'fixed one last week on my daughter's tracer.

They will not stop larger leaks such as tank gaskets, etc. They also can clog the radiator or heater core. My motto now is, try stop leak. If it still leaks, replace the radiator.
 

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Usually the stop leak isn't as effective on leaks close to the top. If it does seal, eventually it will leak again. The best bet is to pull it out and carry it to an honest radiator shop and have them clean and repair it. It usually runs less than $40 and they'll give you a year or so warranty.
 

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We have had many cars come in for the heater not working correctly. 9 times out of 10 the system is full of that crap. It's a band-aid at best to get you home.
 

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Bars leaks or Alumaseal poweder works on small leaks. We have used it on farm equipment and pickups for many years. It will buy you time but usually pinhole leaks are a tip off the core is rotting.
BTW 92 up full size Blazers and Suburbans have weak core connections to the header tank and crack the solder joints. Only fix is a full thickness core. I don't know when GM finally fixed that one.

I would use the lowest pressure cap avalable, or pull the rubber gasket off the cap you have on it now to reduce core pressure. An old core can't take the high pressure.
David

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A buddy of mine was stranded on the side of the road with a bad radiator, I think road debris killed it. He ran to a convinence store, bought some eggs (i think 6 or so) and some water. he fired the eggs into the radiator, with the water, and the leak stopped. For real, no foolin'
he drove to my buddies shop the next day, and we drained the water, and replaced the radiator, what a smelly mess, but he put about 100 miles on the eggs.

John
 

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Are you going to be storing your car for the winter? If so, wait and have it repaired correctly.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips.
 

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Charlie -

Yup, that's a fact; all the OEM's use it at initial coolant fill, and have for many years. Eliminated lots of nickel-and-dime warranty claims for tiny hose connection and freeze plug leaks. Go to the coolant fill operation in any assembly plant and you'll find a bin full of them - they plop two in every radiator.

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green
 

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Yeah...but the OEM pellets are designed for seepage... they work good for that...and are undetectable after they dissolve (at least the GM's)...I can't remember ever trying them for pinholes though...I would maybe give them a try if I was in a bind...

You can detect the aftermarket stuff just by removing the radiator cap and looking at all the goop/slime that is on it...just imagine where else this stuff is glued to.....I wouldn't put that stuff in My work/beater car....I would repl the radiator....just My .02......Billy
 
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