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Discussion Starter #1
Turn signal quit working on drivers side, power at the flasher outlet, was blinking on passenger side not drivers, now I have a constant power on passenger side only, changed the flasher, still constant power no flash.
Popped a fuse while probing for power, my fault, can't figure why I'm getting power from the lever to the flasher to the bulb with no flash.
On drivers side out of colum power to the flasher,..any suggestions are appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's a 69 ,For the life of me can't find the second flasher, checked hazards one side operates, I know there must be a second one somewhere,, I'll keep looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ahhhhhh ha!,...found that bugger hiding behind the ash tray.....hopefully this is the problem, just not sure why one side getting power and not the other, we'll find out shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Flashing passenger side, not drivers, power from switch good, have to trace it back to the fuse panel, hoping it's just a ground,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Getting juice on the colum at first harness connector on the green wire with switch on, can't find fire to another, does anyone know which wire I should be testing from the switch for the drivers side, and do they use separate grounds from right to left... Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks,I'm getting 5.9 volts at yellow wire at first harness connector at the colum,with switch on, green wire goes to 12 and works fine, big brown wire is 12v , if I jump 12v to yellow wire I get a constant with no flash, I'm about at my witts end and frustrated, trying to figure out how to test the switch without removing the steering wheel, trying to make cruising the coast.... I'm baffled at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With the probe in the purple socket I get 12v ,with turn signal engaged it drops 4.75 v, with right indicator engaged 11.9 and works, almost seems I'm missing a ground or maybe the switch took a dump on one side, idk..
 

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The flasher is probably good if one side is working. The problem is most likely a burnt out bulb or bad ground on the driver's side. The bulbs will remain lit if there's not enough current flowing through the flasher to heat up the spring steel in the flasher and this happens when there's a bad ground that looks electrically resistive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Changed both flashers, flasher and hazard,, thinking ground because I have 12v purple wire to switch, coming down from the switch on the right side all is good, voltage remains good, turn signal down to left purple wire drops below 6v, nothing woring on left (drivers side).... tried switching bulbs from right to left, no difference, they are 12 led's but they were working fine before today
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Headlights chk, tail lights check , front running lights check, right turn chk, left turn. No check.
 

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You'd have to find which flasher controls the turn signal. go to the discharge side and make a temporary connection from a known 12v pos source and verify that the filament for the turn signal is getting power/ lights up (provided the ground is good. Check the ground at the bulb). This will clear all wiring from the dash back to the trunk. Move temporary connection to lead side of flasher and trace back toward switch. If you have power to that first connector, then selector switch is bad. Also, verify that brake lights work. Left rear runs on same yellow wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks, gave up for the day, put it back together and just for giggles tried it and everything works, these are days I can do without, means it'll happen again if I don't figure it out, found a diagram showing color codes, I'll try your suggestions, thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Puzzling part is purple wire drops voltage on the left side not the right, thinking ground somewhere
 

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Long shot. I think all those wires pass through the firewall at the bulkhead connector. If the connector terminals have become corroded, it may well need to be taken apart and cleaned to get the continuity back. There is a grease inside the connector, to stop moisture, which hardens and stops protecting, replace with a REASONABLE amount of grease to redo the moisture barrier.

Also, the grounds between the engine and chassis need to be clean and tight. Battery should ground to the engine, and then, chassis and other grounds from their areas, to the engine. Engine is the grounding buss bar.
 

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The brake lights and turn signals use the same wire. Do your brake lights work on the side with the problem? If not, it is probably ground of the socket to the body. The original sockets are plastic with the ground / holder for the bulb pressed in. Clean the contacts and the hole in the lense assembly. I have had problems with this since 1972 on various Gen 1s.
Also, the metal part of the socket (bulb holder) may slip out of the plastic housing and the power contacts may not be making connection. See if you can push them back in. You may have to add a ground wire for the socket or replace the socket with the metal type.
New bulbs may not have enough solder on the contact point to make good contact, I have had to add solder and file it to fit.
If you have LEDs, you may need an electronic flasher instead of the mechanical flashers. Not likely if you have turn signals on one side and not the other. If you have emergency flashers, do they work on both sides?
LEDs draw less current and if you mix LEDs and the old bulbs, the electricity follows the path of least resistance and the old bulbs may not work.
I put LEDs in the 68RS and couldn't get them to work. I had not change the parking lights on the front.
Just things to try.
 
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