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Discussion Starter #1
I'm building a small journal 327, .030" over, which should make about 425 net HP @ 6500 RPM.
The crank throws are ground/polished to .020 undersize, which now makes them 1.980" OD. How much can I drill out the throws?

Thanks in advance.

Joe
 

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What kind of drilling did you have in mind?
 

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This can be done but expensive, rebalance, re-champher oil holes etc, I would look into getting an aftermarket crank from Eagle/Scat/Callies, etc. and keep the 327 crank aside if its forged. Just my 2¢
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is an original forged crank from a SHP 327/365 horse engine (L76).
I want to lighten the throw journals, same as Scat/Eagle/Calles does, in order to cut recip weight. I have also installed ultralight wrist pins in order to further cut recip weight. The goal is to enable me to remove max amount from the counterweights via diameter reduction/knife edging. Aim to minimize windage and inertial weight of the crank.

I am not talking about cross drilling.

I am committed to keeping the engine with a short, 3.25" stroke, and so aftermarket cranks are out of the question. Furthermore, this assembly will be installed into a specially prepared small journal 870 block.
 

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Joe,

The engine won't know what kinda crank is in it so I figure that you will be MONEY ahead to buy an aftermarket crank that you want!

You have already went way beyond a stock rotating assembly when you have talked about lightening everything up, so why worry about the crank now??

pdq67
 

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Don,t make it any lighter then it is. The car will need some crank weight to keep the engine spinning between shifts. If you make it to light the car will decelerate to much and to fast. Once you wind the engine up you need to keep the energy stored in the rotating assemble if you make it to light it will drop in RPM to fast.

I build a lot of circle track two barrel engines and some times i have guys complain that they can,t drive the car.
 
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