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Well this '67 'Bird now needs the kick panels installed. Back story: I took over after another guy worked on the car for a few years but did not complete the job. I am working to complete the car's assembly.

The electrical is installed and therein lies the problem. It has one of the American Autowire "Painless" aftermarket wiring systems and the fuse box seems to extend further from the firewall from stock and blocks the kick panel install.

I've removed the dimmer switch and peeled back the carpet but cannot angle the kick panel enough to start the vent tube into the hole. It seems I need to remove the fuse box and shift it out of the way. :crying: I've loosened the two corner screws but it still remains tight on the firewall. Under the brake booster I can see the front side of the connector and there is what looks a 12 mm bolt head in the center, but I cannot access it to loosen it. :crying:

Anyway, I had to take a break from it and I'm just venting. Installing the driver's side kick panel should not be this difficult.
 

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can you access the one bolt that holds the firewall electrical from under the car?

Then you could separate the 2 halves for clearance to stab the kick panel.

Good news is the PS is a piece of cake to install
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For me this was one of the worst jobs on my car. Don't forget to use a sealer on the
vent tube. I used duct seal.
Yes, it is one of the worst jobs and I knew it going in. I did use duct seal, as I knew once it popped into place there was no coming back out.

The rear of the vent tube has tall ridges molded in, they are for stiffness and to create water blocks. I trimmed them down a little to make fitting in there easier. I suggest trimming 1/4" off them and try install.
I thought about trimming down the tall ridges as an option but managed without trimming.

can you access the one bolt that holds the firewall electrical from under the car?

Then you could separate the 2 halves for clearance to stab the kick panel.

Good news is the PS is a piece of cake to install
I removed the light dimmer switch and the emergency brake pedal and dropped the brake cable out the bottom. The fuse box was fastened to the firewall with two 1/4" screws with washers and nuts on the firewall side. The nuts kept turning with the screws as I worked to remove it. The firewall side fuse box center screw was removed using a swivel socket and fortunately the fuse box split apart pretty easily. I reinstalled the inner fuse box using flange nuts on the engine side because they bite into the metal better.

I then got the kick panel popped into place. I found the five holes to secure it didn't align with the holes in the sheet metal so new holes are drilled. Now I have to reassemble everything. It shouldn't be this difficult to install this panel.

For anyone assembling one of these cars please know the very first thing you should do is install the driver's side kick panel. I guess you first should run any necessary wiring but it does go in early in the build.

I do expect the passenger side to be easier, which is one reason I did the driver's side first.

Anyway, thanks for letting me vent.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For those that do not do it often, simply make dry runs without sealant until you master the installation. Kicks are installed rather easily when using patience.
Yes I could see this being more routine with frequent installs. Part of the learning curve is knowing which parts need to be out of the way before you begin. Today I will install the passenger side then the seats go back into the car.
 

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Was a pain for me too.
 
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Yup. After that job with the kick panels I decided the car would be sold before I ever did that again!
 
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