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I inspected my drive shaft and u-joints as i was swapping my torque converter this weekend and i did not like what i discovered.My 2 year old u-joints had severe impressions from the roller bearings inside the cups and the trans yoke and joints had a few rough spots in rotation. I also realized the drive shaft was severely rusted and was probobly the original from 1969. I had used sicks for the first time this season and i dont think the u-joints like it. They are 1310 series and i was surfing the web and magazines to get information on these items. I am now aware of the stronger 1330 series and the ultimate 1350 series u-joit. The driveshafts are now mostly made from 3" steel or 3-1/2" aluminium. The camaro is shooting for the 12's in the quater and i dont know if i am going into a state of overkill or safe performance practice ! What are you guys using and do you have any sugestions or experiences to share about your driveline systems?

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This is a good area for some overkill. I know more than one person who has beat the crap out of the floor pan of their car because of a broken drive shaft or u-joint. I know two other guys who launched the rear of their cars into the air because a broken drive shaft dug into the road. I don't have to tell you that this caused major dammage!

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
 

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Lakewood makes a special alloy U joint that should hold up well.
The stock driveshaft should be fine for what you are doing.
Of course the 1350 stuff is ideal.
I've been looking at driveshaft options lately. I worry about going bigger than a 3" dia shaft. It might hit the floor as my car is lowered.
David

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67 RS 327
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U-joints, u-joints, ujoints. We have had a big debate in our area about theat lately. Automatics are a bit easier on the joints then manuals. I would upgrade to the better (non solid) u-joint. Make sure you can grease it, because it is a pain to pull it all apart all the time. I have had good luck with the Spicers. You do have a driveshaft loop, don't you. Cheap insurance that WILL save you life. Ever seen a Camaro shift into third and break the front u-joint. It ain't pretty!

BTW - 300+ 11 second passes and a handleful of 10 second passes on a stock Toyota u-joint! I leave the line, on slicks, at 4800 rpm, so they are stronger than most people think.

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Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/

[This message has been edited by Mark W. Winning (edited 11-16-2000).]
 

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Make sure you run a Drive Shaft Saftey Loop. If you have never been in a car when the u-joints fail as I have, let me tell you it is a scary thing.

I would definatly get rid of the 1310's, especially if they are the hollow greasable kind. If running the 1330's are get the solid ones, yea it might be a pain to drop and grease but if you race on slicks its better to have the added insurance. However since you will most likely replace the whole driveshaft by all means get the 1350's. If you have an overdrive tranny, make sure you get the driveshaft ballanced. You will have to change the yoke on your rear end since your stock rear end probably has the 1310 yoke.

david pozzi - my 3.5 inch aluminum driveshaft clears my lowered 68 just fine.
 

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solid joints are my choice(1350), even if i replace two times a year (i don't by the way)
its just cheap insurance.better to be safe than sorry.

p.s. you need a safety loop with slicks,nhra rule.

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My68Camaro
Doug G.
68 Camaro
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Like many bearing applications, there are some misunderstandings about greases.

Most grease related failures are due to using the wrong type, improper amount, or contaminated grease. You can't fix a contaminated roller assembly by pumping in more grease. How many people know what type base oil or thickener is used for the grease used in their cars? Just because the label says "for U-joints" does not mean that it is compatible with what you have. Any mixture of different greases, even with the same base oil and thickener, is worse than either grease used alone.

Many times it's better to just leaved the bearing sealed, and a solid u-joint will be stronger and longer lived. It is easy enough to pop off a journal cap and inspect them.



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Sealed joints are stronger than greasable ones. The one question I have is, with a lot of horse power, When you put the strongest joints you can find in your car, what's going to break?
 

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vonzipper; that name brings back memories. Wasn't it Eric Von Zipper in the movies. Motorcycle gang "boss"? When you're close to 12s in the quarter it's time to get into this stuff for sure. Real strain on the drive train at that point. A busted drive shaft isn't pretty on the dragstrip sometimes.
 

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I can also vouch for the Spicer u-joints. I was shopping around for joints a while back and when you compare them side by side to others you can see a big difference in quality. I also had my standard steel driveshaft balanced at the same time. Even when used in racing, a well balanced steel shaft is pretty dependable. However, aluminum is lighter (less rotating mass = more power to rear wheels quicker). For big bucks,Carbon Fiber units are also available and boast increased strength with a severe reduction in rotational mass-weight.
 

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For some professional advice on your driveline check out inland empire driveline at www.iedls.com They make any kind of drive shaft for all types of vehicles.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
 
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