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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 1968 Camaro coupe with power Drum (I must have typed what I WISHED, not what I have) brakes front and rear. Before I started and engine/transmission re build project, the brakes seemed to work just fine. After sitting on jacks about a year, One rear wheel cylinder failed and drained the rear brake system. I replaced BOTH rear wheel cyliders, bled the system untll I got clear fluid from the bleeder's. I bled them furthest to nearest and I sill have no brakes or resistance on the pedal. I am stumped. Especialy since the front system was never compromised yet they dont work either. What should I check/do? BTW the Shoes looked nearly brand new.
 

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Do you have disc/drums or all discs?
If you have discs all around then there shouldn't be any wheel cylinders.Just trying to clear it up to get an idea.
 

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I had a heck of a time bleeding mine after replacing a couple wheel cylinders, 2 lines and the master cylinder. Ended up using a power bleeder with a quart of fluid and it was fixed. Had to run a about a cup through each cylinder before I had it done. That said, I would guess you might have a bad master cylinder as well.
 

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After sitting on jacks about a year, One rear wheel cylinder failed and drained the rear brake system.
This is quite common, espec if routine maintance hasnt been carried out, changing brake fiuld...I absorbs moisture, reacts to forn hydrocloric acid, HCl and aluminium dont go well together.....the water soluble HCl sinks in the slave/MC bores , corrodes and seal leak . blow etc.

At a gess if there is no fluid between the booster and MC the fuild is bypassing between front and back sections in the MC.

If been siting as I describe above, its std proceedure to pull the MC and slaves to check bores/seals
 

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Best suggestion, put a NEW power disc system in the front, leave the rear drums and have GOOD brakes. No matter what you do the front drums will ALWAYS be drums!! They are NOT a good/safe braking system.

The front disc kit is one of the best investments you will EVER make on your car and with the prices as low as they are now it just makes sense...Checkout our kits in the sponsors section of the forum!

Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Drums never keep adjustment properly, don't dissapate heat well, are MUCH harder to modulate and are slow acting. With the cost of disc kits these days it just makes sense to be as safe on the road as you can.....Remember emergency braking is a fact of life and its YOU that will be responsible if you run into the back of someone....

Its just something I believe in as I have small kids and always think the worst when driving through residential neighborhoods...

We have sold thousands of disc kits over the last nearly 10 years and I am happy I could be a part of making these cars safer!

Even most cheapie new cars now have 4 wheel discs, its for a GOOD reason!

Matt
 

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Drums on the front (power or not) was basically abolished in most of the world by the early 60s (including GM outside the US) ...except The US...where untill the insurance companies started to kick up a big stink, on the back of nader...the US car manufactures moved with the times 10 yrs too late.
There is another recent thread about driums , discs, what sort to use etc.
Bottom line, go down a long mountain road with drums up front, you have a death wish
Back in the 50s i was safer...because everyone know that going down a long hill one used the engine brake AND pulled over to let the brakes cool.

Note: Drums cold are more effient than disc...drums warm or hot, less efficient than a flintstone hole in the floor.
 

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Glad I don't have mountains in NJ :D I have had many short stops (NJ traffic and lights ya know), no issues except a little wandering. I always keep an extra safe following distance and am constantly on the lookout for panic situations (comes from riding motorcycles)

You cannot retrofit every new safety device into old cars, since mine is a numbers matching, the drums stay.

Most rear end accidents are from following too closely, too fast for conditions and driving distracted. The discs will help you to shorten the distance required to stop, but if you have the correct braking distance in the first place ...

I agree with your disagreements.
 

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Glad I don't have mountains in NJ I have had many short stops (NJ traffic and lights ya know), no issues except a little wandering. I always keep an extra safe following distance and am constantly on the lookout for panic situations (comes from riding motorcycles)

You cannot retrofit every new safety device into old cars, since mine is a numbers matching, the drums stay.
Most rear end accidents are from following too closely, too fast for conditions and driving distracted. The discs will help you to shorten the distance required to stop, but if you have the correct braking distance in the first place ...
And the Bols summs up very well right on the mark doesnt matter if have drums or disc

Even so,If my matching numbers didnt have discs I would thake the drums off the axles spindles and throw a set of discs and a backing plate on....even if they came off a Aussie HQ holden or some other american car sitting in a wrecking yard and has the same wheel bearings.
Then take the orginal drums shoes etc and store way with all the rest of the orginal factory stuff.
One would be stupid not to.
 

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Yes Al, I could not STAND the PG (Its on the shelf, with all the loose parts) :) But I have no problem with the brakes.

Oh yea, forgot to mention I have drum only rims (XN rally and FC steel), so if I did change to discs I would have to get other rims.
 

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so if I did change to discs I would have to get other rims.
We now have disc kits designed to fit in DRUM wheels....
What is the issue here? wasnt an issue when we swapped....?????
 

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Some of the wheels were not dished properly to fit disc so the kit we are talking about has a smaller caliper to rotor face protrusion and smaller diameter rotor.

We have had good sucess with them so far.

Matt
 
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