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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever used "dry ice" to shrink wheel studs before installation? If so, did it help or hurt? Also, will there be any lasting effects on the metal? Having trouble with studs shearing on me. Going to install some new ARP studs for my 69. I would like them a little longer, but I am having trouble locating some studs from ARP that would work. Does anyone know of a part number of an ARP stud that would work. Thanks.:thumbsup:
 

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They should not be that difficult to drive in. I've always just used a hammer. They should drive in firmly with a couple good blows from a hammer.

Why are you snapping studs?
 

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I used a lug nut and a couple of washers with anti seize sandwiched between them to pull the new studs through. Dry ice sounds interesting though.
 

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As Steve comments above...
We have used dry ice, even over night in a freezer turned right up (-37C) to drop bearings into industrial equipment, pumps etc.....where heating the outter is not an option... ie cast iron that cant be heated and expended evenly convieniantly.
As to shrinking studs...Im not sure if that would work very well... due to the diamtere and the srinkage per distance at a give temp difference.....maybe

Anyway just line the splines up and wack them in.
 

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Guessing that the coefficient of thermal expansion of the wheel stud is mid-range of typical steel alloys, I come up with about .0008” reduction in diameter of a .615” diameter stud when cooled from room temperature to -110F (not sure of the temp of Dry Ice).
 

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Dry ice is -109.3°F. I've done as Don, Post 4, suggested. No problem with install or later in life.
Since I was installing longer than stock studs with the axles installed, no room to install because of backing plate.
I drilled a 3/4" hole with a hole saw in backing plate and had globs of room.
Drill a pilot hole from the flange side using the axle as a guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the info everyone. I don't know why I am shearing studs, but I think is because I am not getting them installed well enough. I use an air wrench to try and draw them up, but I sheared a few now. That's why I am looking into some good American made studs.
 

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Don't use an air wrench to draw them up.
Same principle at tire shops who do not train their personell in proper air wrench/Lugnut torquing - "How many times can I squeeze this trigger before the stud breaks?"
Use a 1/2 inch drive flex handle.
When the stud bottoms out, quit.
 

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Need to also understand the class of the threads and nuts here when trying to pull on a stud. Material hardness is another. I would think you would strip the class 3 or 4 nut on a class 2 stud. Press is best IMO.
 

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Im sure that u use a torque wrench on your wheels right?
And if not should be... most Tyre shop as policy do so in this country, and is cause for dismissal if not done so...
This is done so that studs dont get weaken and stretched etc, break off while driving...
So its crazy to use anything else that could do the same thing pulling the studs up
you will find that if u use a spacer behind the nut... even using a rim as a spacer.. then torque up with a wrench to spec the studs will settle nicely into place
its not rocket science requiring a PhD... just a little bit of commonsense and forethought
 

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'67's state 55 too 75 foot lbs of torque (AIM), but don't forget that this is when assembled "dry", if you use never seize or some form of lube, you need to stay at the very lowest end of the specs, or slightly less to prevent over torque / bolt stretch. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks. I pulled the axles and had the studs pressed in. Seemed the smart thing to do. The rear end lube needed changed anyways! That stuff always smells so pleasant. Put the wheels back on and torqued to about 80 lbs. Appreciate everyone's help. Thanks :thumbsup:
 
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