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Discussion Starter #1

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I installed this kit but unfortunately currently 1000 miles from my car or I'd go measure. They are between 3/4 - 1" . I have non-stock mounting pads on my axle tubes so not quite a mono to multi swap (they are flat pads with locating holes in center). If you torque to spec and have a gap, the lower plate will start to bend up prior to reaching torque spec. Obviously not good. I added a set of nuts above the spacers which worked great in my case since served as adjusters and means to limit the flexing of the shock plate.

In my case I wanted to get a little more lowering out of the DS kit Which comes with a lowering block of about 1/2 or so if I recall so installed thicker spacer and removed the multleaf centring pin, drilled hole larger diameter and installed a grade-8 bolt all the way through spacer and springs which served as the centering pin. Much sturdier and better than stock setup if you're interested in improving.
 

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Can anyone measure their spacers for me??? : )
Sorry Pete, I would have measured as back home but now at work away from car and figured you got what you needed. If you want this quickly, I'd recommend you call DSE and they'd be able to get you the exact measurement in a few seconds.
 

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Pete - sorry wasn't able to get to this sooner but I measured the alum. blocks last night and are exactly 1 inch tall by 1 inch wide. The other spacer plate that comes in the kit is approx. 5/16" thick.
 

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I made up a set of these from 1x1 square steel stock available at most hardware stores.
They are not as pretty, but are functional and you can have them free if you want to drive to Huntington Beach to pick them up!
 

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Not sure why you would need the DSE kit - it's for using multileaf springs in a monoleaf perch. Reading your link you have the Hotchkis springs which are 3 leaf - you certainly don't need the side spacers with multileaf perches - you will need a spacer to make up some space inside the perch if you use the poly or rubber pads. A trip to the hardware store and buy some 2" wide flatbar in the thickness you need will do the trick. As I recall the Hotchkis springs include short spacers? I recommend no pads at all - in which case you need spacers thick enough to ensure a gap so that you are certain the springs are fully clamped. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=125618
 

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I referenced this video when I did my install March of this year. This video is an install of the DSE conversion kit with the spacers.


I did not use the kit, stock 8.2" 10 bolt with mono perches here.

The spacers look like they will only work for a 5-leaf conversion, note the huge gap at the top of the spring in the video at 7:23

You can properly make your own kit that functions better, and actually fits your application better than this DSE kit.

Side note: you guys that aren't using the lower pads, how are the springs being located in the perch? When I removed my lower pads and installed multis, the springs I was using had a locator that was too small, it basically wouldn't be located properly if I didn't use the pad, has anyone else run into this?
 

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I would recommend avoiding the use of pads. They don't do much and simply get in the way and/or potentially cause a hazardous situation as they compress and distort. The DSE lower plates are nice and beefy and the kit is very reasonably priced as I recall. I needed new plates and U-bolts so was well worth it.

In my case I got rid of the pin that holds the multi-spring stack together and used a bolt instead which provided a nice solid locator that went deep into the lower pad. (I'm not the innovator of this idea and learned it form someone else here on the forum). I was removing one of my leafs (to lower car - another conept I learned here on forum) so made sense to do this anyway. I took the opportunity to make the spring locator pin holes larger (meaning drilling through the leaf stack)so I could use a stronger Grade-8 bolt. You can use an allen head bolt of appropriate size to serve as locator on top/perch. However, if you do this, be prepared with good drill bits cause that spring steel is more challenging to drill through (as I learned that day).
 

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I have a semi-relevant question regarding the locating pin and such...

How important or critical are the holes in the rear end where the U-bolts pass through?

I have a complete rear end that I want to use but I discovered the last guy was running multi-springs with a 1" lowering block on a mono housing with no conversion kit like our original poster Pete68 was asking about.
I bought the rear end complete with leaf springs and did not notice this until I took the springs off. In fact the u-bolts on that side were hardly hand tight when I did.

One side is alright, the other side the holes look to be hogged out some, to where it looks intentional.

I realize there is also the lower shock plate and should be some sort of locating pin, is that enough to keep it all snug under aggressive driving?
I looked at DSE's adjustable spring perch and didn't even see 4 holes like OE spring perches have?
Sorry if that is an outright threadjack in progress, I can repost in a seperate thread if need be.
 

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I have a semi-relevant question regarding the locating pin and such...

How important or critical are the holes in the rear end where the U-bolts pass through?

I have a complete rear end that I want to use but I discovered the last guy was running multi-springs with a 1" lowering block on a mono housing with no conversion kit like our original poster Pete68 was asking about.
I bought the rear end complete with leaf springs and did not notice this until I took the springs off. In fact the u-bolts on that side were hardly hand tight when I did.

One side is alright, the other side the holes look to be hogged out some, to where it looks intentional.

I realize there is also the lower shock plate and should be some sort of locating pin, is that enough to keep it all snug under aggressive driving?
I looked at DSE's adjustable spring perch and didn't even see 4 holes like OE spring perches have?
Sorry if that is an outright threadjack in progress, I can repost in a seperate thread if need be.
What' you ask certainly seems relevant to the subject to me. I can add that m 12-bolt that came with my car doesn't have the perches that include the holes for the U-bolts on each side. I don't know the history/origination of the perches but they look factory and are flat perches w/o sides. It's been like this for 17 yrs that I've had it w/o ever an issue (when I bought it was setup for a low 12-sec. 1/4 miler 4:88s, 3500 stall and 12.5:1 compression).

The DSE kit worked nice for me, cause I was able to incorporate those Alum side pieces which added some lateral bracing (if ever necessary). I installed bolts above them and below so I could lock the Alum. spacers in place and keep lower shock plate from distoring when torqued - something tjo be weary of. However, what keeps this assembly all together (at least as I see it) is the locating pins and the proper torque applied to the installed pkg. If you ever needed lateral support - that would mean you've either lost torque, U-bolts broke, shock plate cracked, and the assembly is loosening. That's why I don't like the pads cause they provide a chinsy means to locate/center and are susceptible to compressing and distorting. All that said, I don't see the sides as being mandatory. Course others may have some differing opinions and would encourage listening to them as well. Hope that may be helpful.
 

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For some reason would not let me edit above response so I wanted to clarify: When I said "added bolts" on both sides actually meant to say installed NUTS on each side of the alum. spacer.:yes:
 

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If you have ever posted a picture of all that I would sure appreciate a link. All that Global West, DSE or Hotchkis ever shows me is a pile of loose parts. I don't even know quite how the conversion setup installs.

I suppose I should look to see if I can source their directions online, but you know the old saying a picture is worth a thousand words? :)
 

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I don't think the bolt holes in the perch really matter at all. I believe Chrysler used just a flat perch as Bill described. My 98 Dakota p/u uses a flat perch and a 4 or 5 leaf stack. The most important thing in my opinion is a solid locator pin and to use u-bolts rather than t-bolts. The rubber isolator pads seem to me to be asking for trouble if you have some power.
 

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The DSE kit in the original post is not for the 3 leaf multi's, it's for the much thicker 5 leaf springs. The 5 leaf springs have a nut and bolt holding the leafs together where as the mono leafs just had a locating nub on the bottom and nothing on the top.

Because the mono leaf setup has no bolt head or nub on the top of the spring, there is no hole in the perch for the 5 leaf bolt head to go. The large plate in the kit is used on top of the 5 leaf springs for that reason and it makes the springs that much thicker.

The side spacers are needed so that you can get the U bolt nuts properly torqued. Without them, the thin mono spring bottom plate just distorts before the U bolts reach the proper torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks again guys. I realized the DSE kit would not work when I found out it was 1" thick. So I need to measure the gap and then make some spacers. Looks like 15-20mm or so but Ill have to get under there and confirm more closely.
 
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