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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Putting on my new heads last night. Got to the part where head bolts are to be torqued and damned if I can not get a socket onto the #1 bolt?? Once it's finger snugged to the head, the bottom seats of the valve springs on BOTH sides stick out to the point where you CAN NOT get a socket in there to tighten the #1 bolt??? Now what do I do?? Anyone else had this issue and got around it???

Progess has STOPPED .... HELP !!!!
 

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Perhaps you could get a different type of bolt such as a 12 point or socket head type which uses a different tool to get at it. Can you put the socket on there and then attach the extension piece to it to get around the spring? I guess you could remove the valve spring also. One thing about it, once you get it torqued (and retorqued after warm up), you hopefully won't have to mess with it again. As a result, removing the spring may not be as big of an issue as it may seem at first.
 

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You just need a thin socket. I believe a 3/8's drive deepwell will work, use an adapter to get your torque wrench on it.
You are using the specified (by edelbrock) part# ARP bolts, right?
I think they are a lil longer, they may have smaller heads, and they have the ground flat washers which you need with the alluminum haeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the problem is the "socket" itself will not seat in the the head of the bolt once it gets to the base of the head. the bottom seats that the springs set into I'm gonna say are 2 or 3mm away from the edge of the bolt. So when the socket goes down, it bottoms out on the tops of those seats and does not make contact with the head of the bolt at all to get a grip. I'll try to get a pic on here. Would a "thin" wall socket take care of this?
 

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Craftsman 3/8 in. Socket, 12 pt. #44331 Thin Wall Socket I think would have a good chance of getting in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well I tried taking a pic, but all the light and flash refects off the aluminum and blurs everything. I swear it's always something. Thanks for the input guys, I'm off to go buy a thin wall socket :-(
 

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I ask again if you used the correct headbolts?

reprinted from edelbrock.com:

> To use stock rockers on Performer & Performer RPM Chevy heads, .100" longer than stock pushrods are required.
> Use Head Bolt Kits for easy installation.
> S/B Chevy heads may not be used on engines with less than 4" bore (262, 265, 283, 305, 307 c.i.d.) except with cams having less than .450" valve lift.


Head Bolt Kits
Manufactured by ARP, Edelbrock Head Bolt Kits contain a complete set of the highest quality head bolts and hardened washers available. Cold-formed to ensure molecular integrity and heat treated prior to thread rolling and machining. Reduced diameter bolt heads eliminate the need for valvetrain removal to facilitate cylinder head re-torquing. Hardened and parallel-ground washers are included. Rated at 170,000 p.s.i.

recommended head bolt kit is part # 8550

From Summitracing.com: EDL-8550 Edelbrock Head Bolt Kits Cylinder Head Bolts, Hex Head, Chevy, Small Block, Kit Monday $89.95

Of course if you'd like to avoid edelbrock's markup on ARP's hardware, this is exactly the same bolt set: ARP-134-3701 ARP High Performance Series Cylinder Head Bolt Kits Cylinder Head Bolts, High Performance, 12-Point Head, Chevy, Small Block, Kit Monday $65.95

While I'm at it, did you order your .1" longer than stock pushrods?

The best way to avoid the situation of planning a weekend project, tearing your car to bits, and then running into problems is to do your homework first! We are dealing with aftermarket parts intended to change things. There are dependencies, there are fit differences, there will be procedure differences are compared to using stock parts.
 

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ARP 134-3701 head bolts are 12 point and they take a 7/16 socket. They clear the roller springs on my AFR heads, they should work on yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry JimM...
Forgot to replay. I did in fact get the newer push rods. But did not get the bolt kit. Are we talking a performance and failure issue with these bolts, or a fitment and convinience issue??
 

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both. The ARP botls are much stronger than stockers, partcularly old stockers. They are also better made and will give more accurate torque readings.

Mostly tho, they come with the flat ground washers needed to prevent galling on the alluminum heads (due to dis-similar metals expanding at different rates) and are slightly longer to make up the difference, and they have small 12 point heads that you'll be able to get a wrench on.
 

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I would get the EDL 8550 according to Edelbrock these head bolts (made by ARP for Edelbrock) permit re-torquing with heads on after run-in and they are 6 point bolts w/washers fyi.

Here's a pic of them

 

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ARP 134-3701 head bolts are 12 point and they take a 7/16 socket. They clear the roller springs on my AFR heads, they should work on yours.
They clear on my RPM heads also. No problems at all?
 

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I have run 1.625 springs on sbc and that is big, clearance is tight there but never had any issue tightening up head bolt with smaller heads or stud nuts. If you have to go buy one ARP 6 or 12 point bolt with washer and be done. Put this puppy to bed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not a problem Jim...
Found a local speed ship that had the ARP bolt kit in stock.
Grabbed it and the project is now back on track.

Thanks
Chris
 
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