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I just bought this '67 camaro with a 355 motor, it's a drag car. Well it had a magneto in it and I took it out because the coil needed replaced, so I ended up just putting in a mallory unilite distributor with the promaster coil. Everything was set up correctly and the timing was fine, but the car will not start unless I ran direct power to it from my battery to an on/off switch. I was able to crank the car over with the key in the ignition, but the car would only start with the power from the battery only when the on/off switch was flipped on. For some reason, direct power from the battery is the only thing that will start the car. I don't even have enough power off of the starter to get that distributor to produce spark, and I tried to run the power wire off of the starter. Seems like something is killing my after the battery. I have the battery mounted in the trunk. I may end up just re-wiring this entire car so I could figure out where everything is going to, but does anyone have any suggestions or know what would cause this issue.

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the dist doesn't get power from the starter, it gets it through the fuse block where it passes through the firewall, and is a resistor wire covered in a cloth outside layer from the factory. Being it is a drag car it's probable long gone, but if you have wires going through the junction block by the steering column it may still be there. A magneto uses a switch that grounds the mag to kill it because a magneto doesn't need voltage to work, it produces it's own. You need a key hot wire from your ignition switch to a ballast resistor, to the dist for power. Chevy starter solenoids have 1 large and 2 small terminals. Big one to battery, terminal closest to the block is the crank circuit, small terminal closest to the outside of the soleniod goes to coil positive for additional power during cranking in some applications, and is only hot while cranking. Check your installation manual to be sure if that is needed and what ballast resistor you may need. Unilites fry very easy so read the instructions and follow them. Mallory has them on their web site if you don't have them.
 

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In addition to Larry's suggestions, '67's OE ignition switches do not have IGN voltage in the start position. You might trade out to a '68 switch and swap your tumbler to save the key. Yes, I know, the yellow wire is still there in the OE harness.

Also, you should check charging voltage at the battery posts to ensure the correct voltage is present unless you recharge externally between rounds. If you have an ext reg alt, you can turn up the charge voltage to make up for the voltage loss.
 
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