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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, my 1st post, the car, 67 camaro, the issue; the car runs beautiful but, hit the lights or switch for convertible top the car shuts down. When on rd and put blinked on before comming to complete stop it surges like it shuts off then on as the blinked goes. Need some help as to where to start to fix.
Thanks to all.

MAC
 

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Mac, you'll need the electrical diagrams from the AIM for your 67. Wires are crossed/shorting out somewhere in your blinker/signal light and convertible switch/motor circuits. Check your ground wires from body to sub-frame as well. When you say "hit the lights" do you mean headlights? If so these are high amp draw and the convertible is a heavy load as well....you'll want to also check your charging circuit but you haven't said anything about hard starting, so makes me think it's a load from those 2 circuits that's causing the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the feed back gordr. I can't say that it starts any different before or after this issue. Yes when I said hit the lights it is the headlights. If it were difficult to start what might that be saying saying I was going to start chasing wire but, wasn't sure where to start.
 

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Moved this thread to Electrical, however, as gordr suggested, check charging voltage across battery posts. This older design of electrical has very low, if any recharge power, and electrical power, for the car at low rpm. Usually at idle, power comes from the battery rather than the alt. These older designs need to be driven, ie, 15-20 miles, for a good recharge.

You could start by measuring voltage between the alt BATT stud and pos battery post, Should be less than 0.4 volt difference. Start by disconnecting the battery pigtail to junction block, the horn relay buss bar, disassembling the terminals and wire brush them and reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the help, I'll start as suggested & post results.
 

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Is your original wiring all hacked up? If so, it may be worth just replacing the harness and calling it a day. Sorry doesn't help you troubleshoot but I know someone who spent weeks piecing an old hacked up harness together and finally got everything working only to have flames shoot out from under the dash one day when going for a ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Overall wires are in good shape, concentrating on lights and convertible top switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Needs some help to confirm something. Is the switch for the convertable top supposed to be hot all the time or only with key on?
 

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All the time. Should have a circuit breaker on engine side of firewall next the master cylinder.
I think. Power from horn relay buss bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got it. Any idea where I can get a wire diagram that includes the power top. The 67 service manual doesn't show.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks E glad there are people like you to help the weekend warriors.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Found 3 issues, 2 of which are now fixed. the 1st bad ground on battery cable, 2nd bad dimmer switch was shorting out lights and shut car down when used. Now for the 3rd. Convertable top switch with engine running hit the switch and it kill power,(car shuts off). Convertable top motor check out electrical good ground, circuit breaker show continuity when tested. Not sure if a bad horn relay might be the issue. Any ideas? As always, thanks for the time reading my posts. MAC
 

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Since the problem is with the top, I suggest you disconnect the hyd cylinders to the top so as you're not 'exercising' the top during troubleshooting, and less load, read less current, on the pump.

The only feature being used by the horn relay in this circuit is just the buss bar, a connection point between the battery and load.
You can disassemble the terminals and wire brush the terminals and buss bar, doesn't hurt.

You stated the engine quits running when top is commanded to move. This statement suggests the battery is not charged enough, and/or too small of capacity. The alternator size should help also. Standard size is 37A, more accessories, the bigger alt, aka, 55A or 63A. But just the same, if running an OE mechanical voltage regulator, depending upon the battery charge condition, the more running time above 2000 RPM, the more the battery gets charged. So with more load demanded from the electrical system, the alt maxes out, all the power goes to the top circuit, and engine dies, none left over for the engine to run.

So, back to the pump. Generally, the pump is exercised during engine idling. Therefore, the alt I not being used, and battery supplies power. So with the top load disconnected, the pump should work with engine continuing running. You may want to external charge battery and maybe select ENG START to assist in the extra power drawn, with engine off.

If pump works and engine runs in no-load condition, I would suggest the top is misaligned, and/or joints need lubing.
If the engine dies, while working the pump, plug in a separate power line to the pump for test. If it works, then problem is with the switch, circuit breaker internally, or the wiring. If it does not work, also do the same for the ground side and wire it back to the battery.
If it works, then check all grounds, use a star washer.

Congrats on finding the other two problems, this above should give you ideas of what to do. Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It wounldn't be a bad idea to pick up a new 30 AMP c/b for the firewall since the 1 on the car is the original.
I'll try as you suggested.
Thanks again for the direction.

MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, I`m still chasing. So, on a whim, while the car was running I disconnected the wire to the internal voltage regulator and I'm able to, run the car, turn on lights use blinked etc.... w/out a stumble in the engine. Plug it back in and car will stumble when blinked goes on & off. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Wire from positive cable to junction block was the cause of all issues. Appears to be oxidized.
 
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