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My brother-in-law keeps telling me I need to install an electronic ignition system in my 67 Camaro. Problem is I have no idea what to do or how to do it. Was hoping someone could give me direction on what to purchase so I can accomplish this task. THanks.
 

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Installing an electronic ignition system could range from simply installing a Petronix unit under the cap of your existing stock distributor to replace the points, to installing a complete after market distributor,coil,and ignition box.The easiest and cheapest would be to install points upgrade unit like the ones offered by Petronix,Accel,and Mallory.They install under the cap,replace the points and condenser,perform much better than the points set up,and are completely undetectable once installed.Most units only have a two wire hook up.You could install a new dirtibutor which already has a more modern magnetic pick-up style sytem in it like the ones offered by all of the above mentioned suppliers as well as MSD.In addition to the distributor you could also install an aftermarket ignition box which will complement any ignition system with easier starting,a smoother idle,and a hotter spark.Some distributors will only work with the ignition box,so make sure you do your homework before you buy.The stock points set up is fine for what it is.It works,but any car can benefit from the above mentioned upgrades.You don't have to mount big red boxes on your fire wall either,you can get creative and conceal many of your ignition upgrades if you are creative enough.Most manufacturers also offer alot of the components in black so they look stock if that is what you are after.The sky is the limit.
 

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I will probably run a Davis Unified Ignition set up in one of my next projects. From looking at their site and especially reading testimonials here and elsewhere it appears as though they have a very good product, and is simple to use-no need for big boxes anywhere. And the cost is very reasonable imo.

I will also say that MSD has moved some or all of their manufacting off shore, or are importing much of their stuff at the least. As such, I have no more interest in buying their products....and I have noticed at the tracks I go to I hear about more and more MSD failures.

I have an OEM single point distributor in my street/strip 68 w 350 and have been pleasantly suprised with its performance. I changed the points 2 years ago, and have turned it up to 7200 rpm several times and made 100 runs or more in addition to driving a little on the street.
I have a new conclusion forming in my mind about the OEM ignitions and cooling systems too-the OEM stuff is more than adequate for what 99% of us are doing. And lots cheaper.
 

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Lets deal with this post each part bit by bit
My brother-in-law keeps telling me I need to install an electronic ignition system in my 67 Camaro.
OK 99% of people have no idea about timing curves how they work why they are needed and the dramatic effect it has on an engine, including get it wrong and a slow death..which is quite common
Si I assume that for bro inlaw knows how to re curve the new electronic dzzy to your engine right? If not then he is 1 of the 99%



Problem is I have no idea what to do or how to do it.
There is a excellent 101 instruction on how it works, as quite a few threads on how to and why it is curved to a partular engine...under stand the 101 VERY clearly before even thinking of changing or swaping.


Was hoping someone could give me direction on what to purchase so I can accomplish this task. THanks.
Just because it is 'old ' technology doesnt mean it doesnt do its job as well for your application....If it is a cruise car hits just over 5000K acouple times a yr, the old pionts will do the job just as well....dont fix if it is not broke

Mo9st ppl fid they do get a bit of an improvement, usully because they have a fireing issue, be it a plug lead, over rich or lean, whatever...dump a electronic in, bigger spark and it over comes the orginal issue...for a while and they swear its the new expensive dizzy over the old one

Reality check...GM by the late 60s in their water coooling, bodies, dizzies, engines etc etc where at the peak of that old technolgy which still stands up today.

Now if you want to run leaner mixtures at cruise, richer mixtures under WoT, run high rpms, tow very large weights , or convert to alternative fuels like LPG or CNG....upgrade.
If not continue to enjoy your good old relible car and dont fix what is not broke.
 

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I used the M&H electronic point replacement module which uses only the one stock wire. No need to run a seperate 12 volt source to the distributor like the Pertronix requires. It was an easy task and so far works just great.
I did the same with the same great results. :thumbsup:
 

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You can search "Pertronix" here and read many, many threads on the various types of DIY electronic points replacement kits. They are generally right around $100, and I would have to buy two so I could carry a spare because you can't find them at just any old local parts store.

Same would go for the M&H kit http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0404_ignition_conversion/index.html

If you do decide to convert, make sure you know whether the manufacturer wants a constant, full 12V source or not. What the guys are referring to when using the "stock" wire is the cloth covered resistance wire which you should find on the + terminal of the coil. This type of wire delivers varying voltage (there are some numbers here somewhere telling you how much the voltage drop is in this OE wire, but I cannot recall them off the top of my head), and some electronic conversions will require you to remove or cut and splice the resistance wire with a larger (12 gage or so) normal wire so that the coil sees the full 12V. I wonder how much of an improvement the M&H unit is without getting a full 12V.

Also, important for your model year, you need to use a setup that allows you to keep the yellow wire from the starter terminal to the + side of the coil. OE 67 ignition switches only send 12 V in the crank position to the starter, and the yellow wire is needed to get the 12V to the coil. So a drop in replacement distributor that only uses a single 12V feed wire and doesn't have an external coil (like a GM HEI) needs some extra circuitry to work on a 67 model.

If you decide to do anything that requires you to remove or even loosen the distributor, you'd best spend some time studying up on how to properly remove and install a dist; if you don't know what you are doing, you can end up having to tow the car to a shop or pay a mechanic to make a house call. It isn't hard to do once you understand what you need to mark and/or pay attention to, but you cannot just unbolt and yank and flail around and expect it to run right (or at all).

You can also send an OE distributor out to be converted to HEI www.davessmallbodyheis.com Dave Ray is a wizard, but can be hard get hold of.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for all the great replys. Right now my mistress seems to run pretty good but I do have a few issues with sputtering and some rough idle at stop lights but other than that she purrs like a kitten. I'm amazed at just how much technology is behind automobiles..especially the currentl vehicles. This type of swap/project is way over my head and with all this new info I'll probably look at a replacing the points/condenser just to see how things go. I sure wish I had taken auto shop in high school but I was too busy with other things.
 

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We just converted my buddies OEM points style to electronic.

Used the Pertronix retrofit and a new coil.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-1181/

He swears the car starts and run much better.

What other may have not mentioned is once you convert it requires Zero maintenance.

So far a re-curving the advance. Nothing changes when you simply replace the points and condenser with the magnetic pick up.
 

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Right now my mistress seems to run pretty good but I do have a few issues with sputtering and some rough idle at stop lights but other than that she purrs like a kitten.
So have u checked crap in the carb float valve, checked float level, checked accel pump gap?
Checked the dwell, how long have the plugs been in? pulled them to read what the issue is..
As I stated above, it mat 'fix' patch the problem because of stronger spark, but eventually u will have to find out what is the problem when gets real bad.
The points system are NOT the problem

And just throw and electronic ign in...one that will be set up ball park only, for post 1972...u will start having the heat sink starter problem in a few months because of high intial, the advance will be to high, possible audable ping, if not slowly burn valves....list goes on.

I said before , dizzies are NOT plug and play.....its like shooting a deer on the run, right leads time (at given rpms) and the deer drops within a few yds....wrong lead time and spend a day tracking the bloody thing down, and find it dead thru loss of blood.
So it comes back to the questions
1/ Do u really NEED it?
2/Do u know who to time the advance curves in..not so much the intial or idle....the curve whe the car is moving 1200 to 3500 rpms.?
3/ Does your bro inlaw or who ever, own, build, tune classic tecnology cars...or is it something he has picked up from the coffee break at work from a work mates uncles, niece....Something seval poeple over the yrs have fallen into..and several others advoided by posting 1st.
 

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The points system are NOT the problem

2/Do u know who to time the advance curves in..not so much the intial or idle....the curve whe the car is moving 1200 to 3500 rpms.?
3/ Does your bro inlaw or who ever, own, build, tune classic tecnology cars...or is it something he has picked up from the coffee break at work from a work mates uncles, niece....Something seval poeple over the yrs have fallen into..and several others advoided by posting 1st.
That's why NO cars built since the 80s use points?

And you other comments apply to point dizzys just the same:yes:
 

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That's why NO cars built since the 80s use points?
No that is not the reason..it was because of leaner mixtures pollution stds etc and the introduction of ECU contoled timing.
NOT unreliabilty.
Where window winders obsoleted because of unrealibity?
Or a washing board?
Just because something has been obsoleted doesnt mean it was faulty....like a dial telephone
 
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