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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at buying a 350 4 bolt block and steel crank that came out of a 69 truck. I want to replace the 6 cyl M20 in my 68 with it. I want it to be streetable but with plenty of kick. What recommendations do y'all have to build it to about 350+ hp? I'll be looking to buy connecting rods, pistons, cam, heads, intake & carb and headers. I don't think I want to stroke it. What's an average price for it?
Also what else will I need to do the conversion? I'm looking at getting a 12 bolt 4.11 posi and I know a bigger radiator. What about front springs? Anything else?
 

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be careful, Truck blocks are .4" taller (if I remember correctly) That will mean that passenger intakes will not fit. Don't know what that does to exhaust and other clearances. Ask in the engine section. I'm sure you can get more complete information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is that 4 inches taller or 4 tenths of an inch? The intake manifold would have to be for a truck engine?
Anybody else know more about this?
 

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i don't think you'll need front springs. i dropped a small block in mine from a 6 cyl. and it actually rides a little bit higher in the front now. of course, if you want to change them, it's probably a good time to do it when the engine's out.
Tybor
 

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i dont know about the 4 inches taller thing, i bought a 350 out of a 1 ton, and it was the same as any other 350. and as for the springs, you dont realy need 'em, a small block weighs less than a 6 cylinder.
 

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Also verify your heater hoses at the firewall will hook up. Big blocks have heater hose connections near the frame rail, where small blocks connect closer to the distributor. Other things to look at are the radiator shroud, motor mounts, power steering clearance and starter motor mounting and clearance with manifold/headers.

Robert.

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68 Base Coupe, 327/210hp with TH400
99 Silverado
 

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if your going from 6 cyl. to and 350 small block don't worry the truck block will be the same as a car block,a big block is where there are possible truck blocks(366 & 427).
I believe that springs and heatcore are the same 6cyl to small block.

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drive it like you stole it!!! :D
67 327 11:1 4spd.
70 454 400thm 10 bolt posi
2000 SS camaro navy blue A4,chrome SS wheels
my camaros
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No I really haven't. Something about assemlbing your own I guess. What kind of proces are we looking at for 350+hp?
 

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six cylinder to small block - throttle rod/cable. Inline six cars use throttle cable, small block cars (except cross rams) use a throttle rod. Pedal assemblies are completely different as well. Unless you buy a new/different cable and use an updated linkage. That would be my preference. One less hole in the firewall.

350 hp 350 may be tough with truck heads, which are typically crap. Easiest/cheapest way to 350 HP - 383 with 10:1 hypereutectic pistons and cb heads. If you have some (but limited) money, look at the dart sr sportsman steel heads - often cheaper than finding and rebuilding original heads. If you have more money, look at aluminum heads. GO with a hydraulic or hydraulic roller if you can afford it. Full roller valvetraine. Air gap performer RPM dual plane and a 750 holley.

my 2 cents.

Adivanman
http://www.adivanman.homestead.com/camaro.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't have the truck heads anyway so I'm looking at what y'all are suggesting - Vortec and IronEagle?
Why not solid lifters? Half the fun I remember being 16 was helping my older cousin adjust his in his 283 Vette motor in his 55 BelAire. That was a screamer.
 

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What do you want to do with this car? is it going to be a race car or a daily driver?
If you just want to make a good street motor then just get a rubild kit from Jeg or Summit, you get everything to rebuild your motor even the rods and crank but since you have a steel crank you will not nead it but you will have to take it and have it looked at.
If I had the money then I would go with the Iron Eagle heads.
There is nothing wrong by using a solid lifter cam you will even make more power with then put you will have to just the valves more offen and they make more noise.

350ci +0.30 9.5:1
Vortec heads
1 3/4 headers
Solid Comp Cam 282S
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Holly 650 vacuum
Will make about 360 TQ and 340 HP.
If you are making a engine to drive a lot then you want a lot of TQ for the red light to red light driving.

Just my 2 cents

JonniD
 

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You have as good a starting point as you can find. 69 block and steel crank. The heads aren't real good but not as bad as later ones. If you have that good a crank leave it as a 350 and work from there.
 

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I agree pretty much with what JonniD said, but I would go with the following:

350ci +0.30 9.5:1 KB hypereutectic pistons
Dart Iron Eagle heads
1 5/8 headers
Hydraulic Comp Cam Extreme Energy 268 or 274
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
Quadrajet 750 or Holley 750 w/vacuum secondaries

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Ricky
68/RS on Blocks...
 

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A Relative of mine just put together a 350 (truck blocks are the same demensions pass. car blocks for SBC's). He used:
4 bolt 010/020 block
GM steel crank
Eagle 4340 5.7" rods
Speed Pro forged flat top pistons,.030 over
GM ZZ4 Hot hyd cam
GMPP Fast Burn Vortec heads
Edelbrock Vortec Performer RPM intake
MSD billet distributor (ready to run version)
Quardrajet carb from a 69 3/4 ton 4x4 truck
Brenzski (spell ?) ported early vette ram horn exhaust manifolds

His engine builder dynoed this combo and it produced 386 hp at 5400 rpm and maintained over 400 ftlbs of torque from 3600 to 5000 rpm. He put this in a 70 4x4 truck and that is why he uses the ram horns. Had he used a good set of headers and a larger carb he should get to the 400 hp level. He drives this all over the freeway's and offroad, it has great throttle response (I have only seen better from EFI systems) and hauls the truck around better that most new performance cars.

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TONY
67 CAMARO R/S CLONE, 355/turbo 350, 200hp NOS,12 bolt,etc...
 

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All small blocks have the same outer dimensions. The tall deck / short deck thing only applies to big blocks.

Also, I did the 6cyl to small block swap in my 68. The throttle cable fits great, don't worry about swapping to a rod. The radiator will probably be too small though. The 6 cylinder power steering pump will work with some modifications. The alternator will work. You'll need all new accesory brackets and pulleys. You'll need new frame mounts and new motor mounts.

Heads - the Iron eagles are decent flowing heads, but I have known two people that have had valve guide problems (burning oil) with them after less than a year of use. If you are going to spend $750 - $800 for a set of decent iron heads, why not spend $900 and get a good set of aluminum heads? IMO The Trick Flow 23* heads are probably the best bang for the buck out there in aluminum heads; they flow better than iron eagles and they are aluminum so you can get away with a higher compression ratio. The Iron Vortechs are also a steal and flow real good if you want an iron head, but there is some hidden expense to the Vortechs - you'll need to use a Vortech style intake and Vortech rocker arms.

Hope this helps.

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68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow, good et there Eric68. You've got exactly like what I'm looking for again. I haven't had muscle for over 30 years. I've got so many questions I'm ashamed to post them all at once.
I picked up Hot Rod's Collector's Anniversary issue with the article of 35 years of 350 Chevy. Real good background. My last muscle was in '70. I had a 67 Vette with 327/350+. Back in those days about all I knew was to go to the Chevy dealer and ask for a 327/375 hp cam and maybe a Mallory dual point.
From what I read in the article I want to build a 701/2 LT1. I like the specs. Here are a few of my questions:
1. How important is heavier (more expensive) connecting rods? The guy at the machine shop is trying to sell me on using his reconditioned? Wow I just check Summit. Rods are expensive. I'll have to see how much my machine shop gets for them.
2. I see the valves are 2.08/1.60 in the Iron Eagles and 2.02/1.60 in the Trick Flows. The LT1 had probably what I think we called 462s that had 2.20/1.60. Is there nothing as big as the 462s in the aftermarket? Also what is the difference in angle plug vs straight plug?
3. What is a HEI distributor and what is an ignition module? Do you need both?
4. What is the difference in Holley Avenger and Holley 4160 silver carburetor?

That's enough for now. Thanks for all the education.
 
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