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I hope I'm not violating any forum rules here but I have a similar post in a different location here but have only received one response and am hoping for a little more direction. Please dont send the forum police after me.

Anyway...my car started overheating last week. I noticed the temp gauge was at 210 at a stop light but the strange thing is that after I started driving the temp never went back down. I pulled out the old thermostat and noticed that it was stuck open so I installed a new one. Thinking this solved my problem I took the car for a test drive only to experience the same thing. The temp quickly rose to 210 but would not cool down while driving.

I let the engine cool off and removed the radiator cap and started the engine. I never really noticed the fluid circulating but as the engine temp rose the fluid level would begin to rise and around the 210 degrees the fluid would overflow out of the radiator. And YES. I did install the thermostat correctly. I am certain I did not put it in upside down.

IF the fluid level would only rise and not circulate does this mean a bad water pump or clogged radiator? I did have the head off last month to install a few heli coils and the engine did not have this overheating issue until I reassembled the engine. Im really stuck on the fact that the fluid level rises. Hoping someone can give me a few ideas. Thanks.
 

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The level will rise as it heats up before the thermostat opens. This is normal. After the thermostat opens you should be able to the water circulate in the radiator. What brand and temp thermostat did you use? Also search the Chevelle site for Wheaton and overheating. His method works.
 

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My first thought was to make sure all air was out of the system, even if it meant pulling one heater hose , on the pump and watch to see if air is not in the area, fill the hose and reinstall, get motor running and don't fill full, with the cap off , look down inside the core tubes, is water flowing .

As someone mentioned, about the correct head gaskets , you may have covered a block jacket hole.
As for the water pump, if you do pull it and replace, look for water pumps with the enclosed or covered impellers.
I believe Elderbrock started this using enclosed impellers, Then others followed, What this does is keep cavitation out of the pump. I use a Stewart pump. There are also 'cooler discs" that are nothing but a flat round plate riveted to any open impeller pump. Cost less than $10 .

When you replaced the water pump, its been known to drill two 3/16" holes in the flat plate. This allows water to flow before that stat temp rises. I use 170° stat.
Check to see if your cap is holding 16#. You didn't mention what fan or clutch you are running.
Hope that helps. Ignore what I repeated from others.

Consider this if you have to replace head gaskets, Felpro has gaskets that give you instructions to drill additional water passage in block, to match heads.
 
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