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Discussion Starter #1
I just scored a 350 from a buddy of my dads that raced dirt track cars. He said it was a pretty stout motor, but i have no ideal what is in it. Anyways i have it on an engine cradle, and was wondering if anyone has ever made a test stand with an engine cradle. I was just wanting some ideals on how to mount up the radiator. thanks
 

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Do you want to run the motor out of the car is this what your getting at.If this is the case I would take it to an engine builder that has a dyno and let them see what you have.There was some one on Team Camaro that used a subframe to do this.I think you need to have the trans hooked up or some sort of drag on the motor while doing this as well...TC correct me if I am wrong....
 

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Depends on how long you want to run it. I used to fire all my engines just sitting on an engine pallet with a bellhousing bolted on to keep the flywheel from sawing the pallet in half and an old radiator in front of it screwed to a wooden sawhorse. Hook up an oil pressure guage as well. It's not going to tell you much though since it will be pretty damn loud and you won't be able to hear much. When I used to do it I had some old fenderwell headers I would put on upside down and it was cool shooting fire out of the headers and anoying the neighbors. Find a short belt just long enough to go around the crank & waterpump pulley & force it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I have the same cradle as wolf. Ill go see if I can get a pic real fast. I just want to run because I just want to check it for leaks and stuff like that. Also dont have a car to put it in, and just want something to tinker with
 

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Discussion Starter #7
here is a pic. I put some mufflers on so it should be to horrible loud. I was thinking of a way to mount it on the front so I can move it all as one unit.
 

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I just made one , mainly so I could retourqe the heads and check for leaks. I just made the mount for the radiator to fit the one out of my chevelle. could use existing hoses ,ect.
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seems simple enough to make something work.
hose clamp a couple of 2X4's to the bottom rails of the stand, extending forward a couple of feet from the stand. screw another 2X4 across them to make a place for the radiator to sit, and use a couple of ratchet straps to hold the radiator down to the board. use the hoses and shroud you have to properly space it forward so your fan is 1/2 in/ 1/2 out of the shroud for proper airflow, and the hoses will help hold the radiator in place.
you can make it all self contained so it can run all day long without problems by simply wiring the alternator up to keep the battery charged and run a hose out of a gas can into the mechanical fuel pump inlet.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:thumbsup:cool, thanks for everyones input, im about done with building the radiator mount. Now I have to build a little gauge pod like js64, and I should be able to fire it off, and make a little noise anyways.
 

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Looks like you already figured it out but for anyone else here's some other ideas: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=162823



i made my own and have a few pictures of others that were home made, maybe they'll be of assistance to you...

click to view:
I'm using my sub frame as an engine test stand.
I am doing a restoration on my 69 and wanted to make sure
everything fit/worked/sealed before I put it all together. Made sense to me because I'm changing so many things, (small block to big block, auto to 4 speed etc) Easy access to everything and all I needed to do was build a wooden dolly and attach it to the rear sub frame mount. It also rolls around easily. I can move it like a tool box on wheels.
I have seen sub frames for sale on E-Pay often. You can use a variety of frames off Nova's, Chevelles Etc.

I built one that serves as a build and test stand. The black pieces are the add on's and the red is the original engine stand. The head attached to the bell housing is an extra from an old stand and was moded to fit the trans bolt pattern. The valve cover is the dash board with tach, temp, oil, start and run switches. It swivels around so you can monitor easy during break in.

View attachment 11458

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How permanent does it have to be?

Mine cost very little and borrows the engine stand's mount, so the crane simply lifts it from the engine stand, you fit the stand and plonk it on the floor!

The exhaust and any radiator is easily attached if need be.

I did this for dyno preparation. It's about a backyard as it gets but cheap and worked very well.
(The first thumbnail shows the running stand verses my old starage stand.)



YouTube - Big Block Chevrolet II
 

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Discussion Starter #13
sorry for so many questions but i have never wired a motor out of the car before. Does anyone now were i can find a good wiring diagram or just explain it to me. I plan on using the altenator to kept the battery charged, and having some kind of switch to start it. I just dont know were to hook up the dizzy, altenator, and how to rig a switch. I will leave this post alone after this question. thanks
 

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I will leave this post alone after this question. thanks
Heck you can ask all you want, it's what the place is for.

As far as wires and switches goes, you can make it as simple or exotic as you want. All you have to do is provide a +. Most of the grounding will occur through the battery cable and engine block just like in the car, make sure you use a good cable attached tight and clean. Same on the positive batt cable, just land it at the starter solenoid same as when it's in the car.Then to start it all you have to do is cut 2 pieces of wire and attach 1 from batt+ to your HEI BATT terminal( hopefully you have HEI, if you have points you need a resistor going to coil + from BATT+. Attach the other wire on the solenoid terminal permanently and touch it to BATT+. You are running. To do a switch just cut the wire in half and stick a switch in there and attach the batt end of it 'permanent'.

If your solenoid has 2 small terminals you can figure out the correct terminal by touching your hotwire to each.

edit: your alternator will need the post connected to batt+ if it's a 1 wire alt. If not a 1 wire alt you'll need all your regulator mess, and I would just run an ac battery charger vs the hassle
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cool thanks. I think I will do away with the altenator. It is an hei. Im just going to wire it up like you said and run a temp, and oil pressure manual gauge, and start it. I think i will just run an on/off switch so I can just hit the switch and go. Sounds pretty clear now. I just didnt know the wiring because I always just mark everything and put it back were it was in a car.
 
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