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As I started to look at the 69' camaros i noticed that there were 5 or six engine available at the time. If any one could give me an insight on the best all around engine I am lookinf for that would be helpful!
 

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That all depends on what you want. If you're asking opinions, the best engine originally available in '69 Camaros was the 375 horse 396. I like 'em.

Today engine possibilities are nearly limitless if you are not concerned with have an original stock vehicle. The April issue of Hot Rod Magazine has a story about dropping a 505 horse LS7 in a '69 Camaro. A classic that runs like a new ZO6! Sweet! :thumbsup:
 

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That all depends on what you want. If you're asking opinions, the best engine originally available in '69 Camaros was the 375 horse 396. I like 'em.

Today engine possibilities are nearly limitless if you are not concerned with have an original stock vehicle. The April issue of Hot Rod Magazine has a story about dropping a 505 horse LS7 in a '69 Camaro. A classic that runs like a new ZO6! Sweet! :thumbsup:
One of our members is doing just that as we speak, I wish he would post some pics!
 

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I don't have an LS7, but here's what my wimpy little ~350HP LS1 looks like in a '68:

 

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As 67-69 Camaro's become more rare and much more expensive, I would look for a camaro with a good body and then install whatever engine combination you choose. It is easier to install a big block or whatever, then it is to replace floors etc.
 

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I don't have an LS7, but here's what my wimpy little ~350HP LS1 looks like in a '68:


i love it.. looks like something i'd do..it's even got zip ties holding the radiator in, and a universal upper rad hose.. ya do what ya gotta do to make things drivable.
really, i love it.. send that pic to Car Craft..
 

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i love it.. looks like something i'd do..it's even got zip ties holding the radiator in, and a universal upper rad hose.. ya do what ya gotta do to make things drivable.
really, i love it.. send that pic to Car Craft..
The radiator is bolted in, the zip ties are only holding the fans against the radiator. I used a 4-core '68 radiator and '99 fans. I'll get around to fabbing brackets for it eventually. Need to do something about that upper radiator hose too--leaning against the air intake isn't good for my IAT. And need to get some cold air to that air filter. And need to reinstall the X-brace and install the subframe connectors. But I can't do the X-brace until I put the T56 back in, and I'm still waiting for a shipping label from SixSpeedsInc to send it off to be rebuilt. And still waiting for Rick's to get in a new batch of tilt columns to replace the broken one they sold me a couple of weeks ago. And one of these days I need to put the hood back on it. And install the new carpet. And clean up the wiring. And figure out how I'm going to put shoulder belts or harnesses in it. And buy new wheels and tires. And replace the master cylinder with a C3 unit. And hook up the parking brake. And order an AC system. And upgrade the front brakes (think the discs in the front are smaller than my Wilwood's in the rear right now). And replace the stereo and speakers. And replace the fuel filler tube so my cap will seal. And get the new mufflers/pipes installed. And and and and and it never ends :). Then I need to tear it all back apart and fix the body.

More pics at http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/.
 

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The radiator is bolted in, the zip ties are only holding the fans against the radiator. I used a 4-core '68 radiator and '99 fans. I'll get around to fabbing brackets for it eventually. Need to do something about that upper radiator hose too--leaning against the air intake isn't good for my IAT. And need to get some cold air to that air filter. And need to reinstall the X-brace and install the subframe connectors. But I can't do the X-brace until I put the T56 back in, and I'm still waiting for a shipping label from SixSpeedsInc to send it off to be rebuilt. And still waiting for Rick's to get in a new batch of tilt columns to replace the broken one they sold me a couple of weeks ago. And one of these days I need to put the hood back on it. And install the new carpet. And clean up the wiring. And figure out how I'm going to put shoulder belts or harnesses in it. And buy new wheels and tires. And replace the master cylinder with a C3 unit. And hook up the parking brake. And order an AC system. And upgrade the front brakes (think the discs in the front are smaller than my Wilwood's in the rear right now). And replace the stereo and speakers. And replace the fuel filler tube so my cap will seal. And get the new mufflers/pipes installed. And and and and and it never ends :). Then I need to tear it all back apart and fix the body.http://
Looks good. Will the AC be hooked up? Did you have to section the crossmember for compressor clearance? Ron Davis makes a radiator with inlet/outlet both on passenger side for this swap. http://www.rondavisradiators.com
Getting back to which engine is best, my car came with a small block and I will probably keep it that way. The original small block still has so much potential it's hard for me to talk myself into dropping in a big block or doing something even more crazy like an LS swap, though I think it would make a really slick car. I recently installed (don't have it going yet) a 350 I had the machine shop balance for me. They built me a set of relatively inexpensive aluminum 210cc heads and recommended which solid cam to use. My machinist estimated around 450 horsepower. He is also a drag racer and a good friend. The car will be used for fun at the drags and on the street. When talking about building your own engine, if that's your thing, a good relationship with a good machine shop is invaluable. Go to a car show in your area and ask around who built people's engine, etc. In Cali it shouldn't be too hard to find a good machine shop who can recommend your best combo.
Or skip the machine shop and just drop in a crate motor if you have the money. http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Parts/showcase.jsp
 

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Rodder,

i've got a good idea for a cold air induction setup if you have a cowl hood.
put a 180 degree bend right off the throttle body and over the intake. build an air box to seal against the bottom of the cowl hood opening. if you want to get really weird, make the air box to use a 14X4 air filter element with a chrome lid on top of it. never seen one built like that, but i don't see why it wouldn't work..
 

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Looks good. Will the AC be hooked up? Did you have to section the crossmember for compressor clearance? Ron Davis makes a radiator with inlet/outlet both on passenger side for this swap. http://www.rondavisradiators.com
Getting back to which engine is best, my car came with a small block and I will probably keep it that way. The original small block still has so much potential it's hard for me to talk myself into dropping in a big block or doing something even more crazy like an LS swap, though I think it would make a really slick car. I recently installed (don't have it going yet) a 350 I had the machine shop balance for me. They built me a set of relatively inexpensive aluminum 210cc heads and recommended which solid cam to use. My machinist estimated around 450 horsepower. He is also a drag racer and a good friend. The car will be used for fun at the drags and on the street. When talking about building your own engine, if that's your thing, a good relationship with a good machine shop is invaluable. Go to a car show in your area and ask around who built people's engine, etc. In Cali it shouldn't be too hard to find a good machine shop who can recommend your best combo.
Or skip the machine shop and just drop in a crate motor if you have the money. http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Parts/showcase.jsp
I'll do AC eventually--gotta have it for stop sitting at stoplights with the top down during the summer. I'm running ATS adapter plates (well, Autokraft clones of them) which put the engine really low and pretty far back. There's no reasonable way to run the compressor in the stock 4th gen location with the stock 1st subframe (would take more than a "notch"). I'm planning to run the compressor up top on the passenger side. I haven't figured out what mounts I'm going to use to put it up there. The guys notching for AC compressor clearance are using BRP plates, which move the engine forward like 4 inches and up a couple of inches, which requires you to also convert to their rack and pinion setup which has worse geometry than the stock box/draglink setup.

My car came with a worn out 350 and TH350 from a '79 truck, and I probably wouldn't have reused anything if I had built another smallblock. I've built small blocks smallblocks before (and rotaries, and bikes), so I know the value of a good machine shop. I wanted aluminum block&heads, EFI, and a 6-speed, so the LS1/T56 swap was a no-brainer. I'll get bored with the LS1 someday and build a bigger LSX.

Good luck on your build up!
 

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Rodder,

i've got a good idea for a cold air induction setup if you have a cowl hood.
put a 180 degree bend right off the throttle body and over the intake. build an air box to seal against the bottom of the cowl hood opening. if you want to get really weird, make the air box to use a 14X4 air filter element with a chrome lid on top of it. never seen one built like that, but i don't see why it wouldn't work..
I do have a cowl hood, and I have thought of doing something like that. I just hate the thought of a tight 180degree bend. There's a guy with a Chevelle over on LS1Tech who has a pretty slick setup for cowl induction: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643850.
 
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