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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How worthwhile is it to match the headers to the exhaust ports?

The flanges in my 1 5/8" Hookers do not match the exhaust ports of my dart IE180 heads. They are smaller, and leave an edge hanging into the port. Mostly at the corners, where the ports in the heads are more square than round, but also some on the edges, particularly at the center ports.

I've unbolted the headers to change the gaskets, and try some fancy locking header bolts promised to never come loose. This time around, I checked Dart's website and bought exactly the gaskets they recommend, felpro 1404's. The pass side header, of course, fell out the bottom onto the floor, so I bolted a gasket on, scribed soime lines, and laid a grinder into it a bit. I'm only going as deep as the flange, maybe 3/8", and bringing it out not quite all the way to the gasket.

On the drivers side, I'd need to remove the clutch linkage to get the header out, not a fun thing.

Here's some pics. Who'd take the time to do the drivers side?

top pic is "done"
Bottom pic, 1 port is done, 1 not
 

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clean up the ridge at the top of the port a bit more.
also remember not to go too far and grind thru (hole) between the tube and flange. Looks good, right gasket helps.:thumbsup:
 

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You are doing the right thing and one of the cheapest ways to build HP. The faster you can dump it, the faster you can pour in it!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, that was unpleasant enough to almost make me change my mind. Whoever designed those drivers side headers should be shot. Needed to practically stand the car on it's nose to get the thing vertcle enuf to come out. I haven't ever taken that header OFF whith the engine in... put it in that way, but that was long ago. Time to go to Brian's science fair, then to the grocery store, what fun what fun. I just want to get my exhuast system back on so I can change the master and start bleeding brakes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The biggest gains you'll find in any cylinder head are the valve job and the areas just under and above the seats. Often if a header barely hangs into a port it won't hurt much. You'll be surprised many times that you gain nothing when you think you will.
Still, it seems the right thing to do. I hope there is some gain there. I do have a good multi angle valve job and some bowl work and reduced stem SS valves and yada yada....

I really need to do this to the intake ports someday, but not this day. My heads are milled .040", enough that I had to slot the bolt holes to get the manifold on, so I know I got a unhealthy mismatch there too.

But tonight I took my wife for out for dinner and a movie, tomorrow is a garage day tho! :hurray:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
"rockin and rollin!"
Been in the garage since 8:30, and not leaving anytime soon.

Port match drivers side head - done
Weld up 2 sports where a telltail line told me I ground a lil too deep - done
Put header back in - done
put sparkplugs & wires back on - done
Install new gasket, bolt header up with new "ford" locking bolts, put locks and e-clips on - done
Fasten driveshaft to pinion yoke with new moroso pinion girdles - done

Now to put the clutch linkage back on. edit - done
Install new oil filter and oil. edit - done
Bench bleed new master. edit - done
install willwood master and fill rear reservior, let it start gravity bleeding. edit - done
Install center section of repainted flowmaster exhaust pipes edit - done
Install new Borla mufflers with new band clamps edit - done
Finish repolishing left tailpipe edit - done
Install tailpipes with band clamp edit - done
Fabricate new hangers that will work with the flowmaster upper hangers and bolt on using the bacd clamp bolts. edit - one done
Install hotchkiss floor brace edit - done
Fire up motor and listen to new borlas
Couple front and rear sections of rear brake line and continue gravity bleeding. edit, bump to next, fluid is just pouring thru this system. EDIt - done
Install new 90 degree fittings on front calipers and fill front of master, start gravity bleeding. edit - done
Install rubber line to rear hard line when fluid gets that far. edit - done

Hmm, that looks like a bunch when you right it all down, and I'm sure there is some I missed. I better get to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't ever be scared to drive it!
If you screw it up, you can fix it again!

I am soooo po'd at myself, for reasons unknown to me at this time, since I see now that the rod attached to the Wilwood master will screw right into the original clevis thingy, I went and started to pull the pedals down. And now I can't get the pin back thru. Got it halfway through the brake pedal and it's stuck there, it will come out, but won't go in.

I imagine one needs to keep pumping that master until not even the tiniest bubble comes out before one can declare it "benchbled"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok, got the pedals hung back up, master on, linked to pedal and adjusted, lines hooked up and full of fluid.
Wonder what I did with that clear hose i bought to plug into the caliper bleeders so I don't make a mess?
This system is filling FAST.

I'm not slow, I'm "thorough"
 

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Jim you shamed me. I'm going back to work. Good read though. I'll keep the refresh button handy.
Oh, 'porting'. Here's my exhaust side. The gasket to header (Super Comps) was perfect. The heads sucked. Core-shift like crazy and over 1/8" smaller too. Not anymore. Took my carbide grinder to do it. The Dremil would have taken a month!
 

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Jim! That's my list!
The ebrake part!
Well, not the Lokar part,,,
And the plugs indexed well. Only one is 'off'. (waiting for gaskets) I'm running out of parts to install. Oh wait a minute,,,, forgot about the new 3" exhaust. OK Jim. Will do, back to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well, worked till near midnight last night, and back out and at it this morning fairly early.

It looks like the Borla mufflers are a scosh wider than the 'flows were. Exhaust system is a lil off center, and the left muffler is hitting the driveshaft yoke. Plenty of room on the other side, gonna fly to autozone for a few collector gaskets, try to cock the system by double or triple gasketing the left collector. If I can get the muff to driveshaft clearance equal on both sides there will be enough room.

Broke out the mity-vac and managed to suck the master dry, so I'm starting over bleeding the rear brakes. Have a good steady drip coming out the top bleeders on both rear calipers so it's only a matter of time.

Seem to be missing the bolts for one of the band clamps, and need some steel to make up those hangers.

Cleaned up a bit, looks like I'm down to one parts box, and nuttin in it but ebrake cable and s-hook, and lug nuts! YOOHOO!!!

Off to auto zone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This is getting to be fun again.

made one new hanger for the exhaust system. Got a peice of flat steel plate from the hardware store, cut off 2 1/2" and drilled 2 holes for the band clamp bolts. Cut the round steel "hook" off the flowmaster clamp, and welded it to the steel plate! put it all together and it works!!

One more to do, got the peices cut and drilled, just need to test fit, mark for height, and weld.

Checked out my fuel lines. Seems she wasn't drawing fuel cause I had the suply and vent lines crossed at the tank, so that's good to go now.

Rear calipers seem done, gravity bleeding the fronts now.

Rockin!
 
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