Hey all. You guys rock.......many answers found on your site. I am deleting my factory air in a 69w/sb350 and cannot figure how to retain heater functions. I am hoping to keep the same heat-a/c control panel. Can anyone shed light on this?
It should still work fine. The a/c switch thats inside the control panel activates the compressor. If the compressor is gone, and the wire capped it just wont activate. The high speed fan setting will still toss more air for your vents too. If you remove the suitcase and lose the relay, then your highest speed fan setting wont work, you need the relay for that. Otherwise the heater items all stay the same and work without the a/c parts on the engine.
Use a std fan housing cover, cut widened patched for the heater. There is a post a couple weeks back on this.
The a/c thermostat resistor coil unit, a hole is cut into the top of the above and mounted inside
Heater doesnt need the the water vaccuum cutoff switch with a/c controls, the heater flaps will direct cold/hot air as needed
Okay maybe a little more info is needed so here goes......the factory "suitcase" has been replaced with an evaporator delete box bought from Ricks, so the high speed relay you mentioned is not there(i don't think). My blower motor is new and was bench tested prior to installing. I get no power to my orange 18g wire for the motor. I know 90% of wiring issues deal with poor grounds and have a test light, dvm and basic skills. I guess what need to know most is after the switch has power, where is the first place it goes? Relay-ambient temp sensors-or what. I am really confused when it comes to these relays and such. Thanks ED
four wires come off of the switch in the dash, one of them is going to be hot when the switch is in one of 4 positions, low, med-1, med-2 and hi,. from there power goes to the blower motor resistor (that was also on your evaporator case) in the 3 lower speed settings. The 3 different resistors control the speed of the fan in the lower settings. From the resistor it goes to the fan motor in the orange wire, and then to ground via a black wire attached to the metal flange of the blower motor where it attached to the evaporator housing. For high speed operation, power came from the hi speed switch output and picked of the coil of the relay mounted on top of the evaporator. The relay supplied 12V from the battery (there was a wire with a fuse holder in it inside the gutter above the distributor) to operate the fan since the wires under the dash are not large enough to hangle the current. The output terminal of the relay is connected to the output wire from the resistor to feed the blower motor.
You need both the original blower motor relay and resistor from the old evaporator housing to make the system work. Hopefully you still have the resistor setup, since it isn't repro'ed and its different than all other year Camaro resistors. They are hard to come by.
Thanks Mark. That helps a bunch. Yes I still have all parts, but I am not sure if they worked to begin with as this car was disassembled when I purchased it. I looked at your engine pic but still need clarification on part names and if there is a resistance test I can use to see if they are good.
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