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Discussion Starter #1
I am considering installing factory console gauges in my car. I currently have a tach and center fuel gauge, the car is a 4 speed. What is involved with the install, how much of the dash needs to come apart, do I need to remove brake booster to get to harness bulkhead and such?

Also would anyone have a part list of what I would need?

Is it a real involoved job?
 

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I haven't done one before. But been thinking about this same install. Here's what little I've learned in preparing (for when I have more money in my pocket). Others will fill in or correct what I don't know, I hope!

You'll need something like this -- looks like one-stop shopping, almost.

I think the oil gauge line is an actual oil line that will run to the gauge, so just keep that in mind -- never heard of one dripping, but I haven't been doing this long! The temp sensor unit will actually send a temp reading to the temp gauge, rather than just tripping the idiot light when it gets hot... I think.

Then go here for some directions. If you've gotten into your AIM electrical schematics before, the schematics for the console gauges should be pretty straight forward.

Probably not everything you need to know, but should give you an idea of what your'e looking at... Based on having just converted my dash cluster from AutoMeter back to stock set up, I can tell you that, if I can do that, you can definitely do the gauge conversion.

Great looking ride, btw.
 

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I just finished my conversion last week. I had never done one before, it was not to tough at all. Do you already have a center console? And you have warning lights?
 

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If you already have a tachometer in I would'nt see why you would have to remove dash carrier. If you already have console then you will nee cg-71 cluster gauge $379.99
ca-6906 conversion harness $95.99, console gauge harness ca-6906 $62.99. you will also need a mechanical oil pressure line. $15.00 bucks. I got that stuff froms rickscamaros.com. I believe I got it all on sale so I paid less then that. Once you have stuff, its totally plug and play. very easy instructions. My guess is 5-6 hours of work if your a novice. If you have warning lights then you will also need a new temp sending unit $5.99 at any auto parts store
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do I need to get to the bulkhead harness connector behing the power brake booster from in the engine comartment?
 

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No. Your current connector has empy holes that would have been used if you had already had that option. So when you buy the conversion harness you will just plug wires into empy holes that are already there. I think on the inside there are 5 wires that get plugged on the inside fuse block. Not sure about the pink wire on an autmatic? Then you should have 2 wires that come through engine compartment if you already have factory tach hooked up. You will probably want to put a clock where the fuel gauge goes. I was able to get my clock in with out removing the dash carrier. brake booster does not need to be removed for converstion. If you don't have a center console, I think the hole thing is avalible for about 700 bucks with all the gauges, wood grain, ect. Its a costly upgrade but I think it looks awsome.
 

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No. Your current connector has empy holes that would have been used if you had already had that option. So when you buy the conversion harness you will just plug wires into empy holes that are already there. I think on the inside there are 5 wires that get plugged on the inside fuse block. Not sure about the pink wire on an autmatic? Then you should have 2 wires that come through engine compartment if you already have factory tach hooked up. You will probably want to put a clock where the fuel gauge goes. I was able to get my clock in with out removing the dash carrier. brake booster does not need to be removed for converstion. If you don't have a center console, I think the hole thing is avalible for about 700 bucks with all the gauges, wood grain, ect. Its a costly upgrade but I think it looks awsome.
great thanks for the help
 

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I had factory gauges in my 69 4-speed which needed some work, and have added autometer gauges to my 68 in the pod that fits in the same spot. If you don't want or need to stay stock the newer gauges work much better IMO and they are all electric. They are also cheaper and easier to install. I wired them all my self and it took a couple weekends (a little more time, way less money for the wiring). In either case you will need to remove the top of the console to get at the screws that hold the pod on which means you also need to take off the console door.
 

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If you already have a tachometer in I would'nt see why you would have to remove dash carrier. If you already have console then you will nee cg-71 cluster gauge $379.99
ca-6906 conversion harness $95.99, console gauge harness ca-6906 $62.99. you will also need a mechanical oil pressure line. $15.00 bucks. I got that stuff froms rickscamaros.com. I believe I got it all on sale so I paid less then that. Once you have stuff, its totally plug and play. very easy instructions. My guess is 5-6 hours of work if your a novice. If you have warning lights then you will also need a new temp sending unit $5.99 at any auto parts store
Just doing quick add-ups, that complete set up I post above comes out a bit cheaper, plus it will save you fro having to order/find everything piecemeal... Hell, if I had some extra dough, I'd jump on that right now myself!
 

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Mark - did you ever do this conversion?

Is there anybody else that has before and after pics? I just bought a 68 about a week and a half ago and having a column mounted tach is already driving me nuts so this is something I plan on doing.

Any tips of thigns to avoid or tricks for getting it done right? Thanks guys
 

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Mark - did you ever do this conversion?

Is there anybody else that has before and after pics? I just bought a 68 about a week and a half ago and having a column mounted tach is already driving me nuts so this is something I plan on doing.

Any tips of thigns to avoid or tricks for getting it done right? Thanks guys
Go with the factoryfit.com line of harness for a no issue installation. http://shop.americanautowire.com/search.aspx?find=1968+camaro&log=false&category=964

The American Auto Wire website has a link to it as well. You need the console gauge harness and the console gauge extension. The extension is matched to your type of transmission. There directions are spot on, the colors and connectors are all the same as factory gauges. You have an advantage in the 68 - you don't need to cut the dash carrier. Just buy the tach unit, and the new printed circuit, and the "oil" idiot light to low fuel light bezel.

The hardest part of the whole conversion is installing the oil line through the firewall LOL. The wiring part is a simple weekend project. Maybe three days if beers are involved.
 

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The Factory Gauges are Crap. You'll pay close to $500 by the time your done.

Plus the OP gauge is mechanical and it has an amp meter NO Volt meter which is fine if you're running an old 60 alternator.

Not to mention the temp gauge has no numbers on it.

And the lighting sucks.

If you don't care about keeping the "original" look go with the Autometer 4 gauge console bezel which is a direct perfect fit for the console.

The you can use any series of 2 1/16 gauges that are ACCURATE. Cost about $325 complete
 
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