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I have a 69 which has the standard speedometer and fuel gauge with no clock. I have recently been given a factory Tach which I would like to mout in place of the factory fuel gauge and add the center mount fuel gauge.

Before I start disassembling the gauge carrier. Can someone describe the process of removal and installation? Also will I need any new wiring harness modifications to add the tach and fuel gauge or will this plug into the existing harness?

Thanks for any help in advance.

Kris
 

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Yes, you'll need a tach wiring harness, a ctr fuel guage and bezel, and home-made clips (for step # 14 below).

Here are some basic steps,..I'm sure I'll miss a few or a lot, but others can fill in:

1. Remove dash pad
2. Disconnect all the wirring to: headlight switch, wiper switch, dummy lights (both sides), and fuel guage. The headlight and wiper switches can stay put
3. Remove radio and heater control.
4. Disconnect speedo cable
5. Remove the plastic trim piece under steering column
6. Remove the guage lenses (4 screws each side)
7. Loosen steering column so that it falls a bit (the extra room is needed to remove the dash carrier)
8. Disconnect the ground wire from the headlight switch
9. Remove the 6-8 attaching screws for the dash carrier
10. Carefully remove the carrier
11. Remove the speedo and fuel guages
12. Using a rotating Drimmel tool, cut the hole for the ctr fuel guage. Use the bezel as a guide to mark your opening. Your rough, not-perfectly-straight opening will be covered by the bezel
13. On the back of the carrier (the tach pod) you'll see sort of a Texas-shaped marking which is shaped like the back of the tach guage. Again, use the Drimmel to cut along the line
14. Use a 3/16" bit to drill for the attaching studs on the back of the tach.
15. You'll have to get creative to fab some clips that will attach the ctr fuel guage. These aren't repo'd.
16. Install the tach in the carrier
17. Install your new tach wiring harness (instructions are included,..easy)
18. You'll have to wire a light socket to your new ctr fuel guage. It's the same set-up as is used on the speedo and your old fuel guage, but now you need three. You can run a jumper from one of the others. I easily found a socket that I cut with a foot of wiring in a junk yard that has older cars.
19. Carefully install the carrier assy back on the dash,..make sure the Astro venting is lining up
20. Note: the wiring and connector for the fuel guage will work for your ctr gauge but you may have to 'free' it up by unwrapping some harness tape to allow it to reach the ctr guage
21. Reverse the disassembly process above.
 

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Here's the backside of a factory cluster with the holes you're shooting for. The outline for the tach isn't quite Texas, but you will see the lines and the locations to drill the holes.



I will post the "template" for the center fuel gauge tonight or tomorrow. There's a very small lip (3/16" or 1/8" or so) at the bottom, similar small lips on the left and right, and a wider lip at the top.

You will want to fabricate the cross brace (metal in the photo) to keep it solid before you cut it.

I just modified a factory standard cluster to do this, because it was already hogged out for a radio and I was tired of trying to find a decent two-post stereo. I used an electric hot knife to make the cuts, but a Dremel should work too.
 

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What kind of fasteners are holding that tach in place? It looks like three nuts with some kind of plastic covering but I can't get them to turn or to pull off. I need to pull my tach out and try to figure why it works intermediately.
If I thump the tach lens it will sometimes come alive which makes me think there is a connection loose somewhere inside.
 

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I'm pretty sure the blue nubbin covers are just an interference fit. I recall gently prying them off and pushing them back on.
 

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Yesterday afternoon I did pry them off, removed the nuts, and removed the tach. I didn't see anything obvious, like a loose wire, that would hinder the operation of the tachometer. After reinstalling it didn't work until I thumped the face a few times and even then it was intermittently.
It looks like I need to have it rebuilt or repaired. Any suggestions? I did find recommended on T/C a place called R&C Tach Shop in IN (812-284-2555) and called them. Their phone voice mail says something like due to excessive workload they aren't taking on new work now. Are there other options?

Andrew
 

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Andrew, try D&M Gauge restoration right there in Greenville SC. They do VERY nice work. They have a website you can google....
 

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I know this is an old post but could someone let me know the center to center distance of the "tie bar" between the two gauges, shown in post #4 ? It is missing on mine and I'd like to fabricate one. It's the rusted tie bar in the middle of the pic. Thanks in advance.

Frank.
 
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