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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I started the rebuild 2 years ago and now I am at the point of finishing it up. The body has been completely restored and is as new. I became ill and had to let the car sit all last year. I installed the engine on Father's day with the help of my kids. I've owned the car since I was 16, I am now 59. It was stored indoors since 1978, untouched. It slowly rotted and many items needed replaced on the body. So far I have - 500HP Patriot Performance 383SD engine, B&M Turbo 400 with Gear vendors Overdrive, Heidts tubular control arms and sway bar, AMD front subframe, Heidts Rear IRS 4:30, 9inch Ford Center, Holley Stealth Ram injection, Marquez Design dash, Flaming River rack and pinion steering setup. I just ordered the ISIS multiplex wiring system for it and will be starting with that in this thread as I hopefully complete the car. I welcome comments, criticism and helpful hints as I complete this project. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi,

I placed a number of photos in my album. Here is the engine install.
I really admire all you guys that tackle the welding and repair of the body. I tried and only burned a bunch of holes., so I had mine done at a shop.
It took them a year. I had the shell media blasted before I started the restore. I wish I hadn't because the only original steel left on the car is the trunk lid, hood, firewall and back seat brace. After putting the motor in last weekend I found it impossible to wiggle a tubular transmission crossmember in (Ecklers). I ordered a different one from G-Force. It slides right in. pics to follow.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Crossmember Issue

Hi,
I received the new crossmember and it slides right in, I only have to enlarge the holes in the subframe to 1/2 inch. I did a comparison of the two and took some photos of them also did a size check on the original subframe. A friend told me that I should have slid it down the subframe before the engine was in, too late for that. I had the tubular one powder coated and did not want to grind it up o fit. so if someone needs one, let me know. Not sure if it doesn't go in from below because of the urethane body mount bushings I use or the AMD subframe
may be slightly different. Either way it's good. I will be moving on to the Flaming River steering install next, all this is way fun as the chemo left me with the dropsies and I never know when something in my hand is not there.

thanks!

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi,
So I started the install of the Flaming River rack and pinion steering "kit".
Pics of what you get. I opted for a '69 steering wheel as it tilts and that's what I wanted.
regards.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,
The rack and pinion bracket sort of fits, but must be helped along quite a bit.
The bracket bolts on to the driver's side where the steering box mounted with 3 bolts and on the passenger side is affixed with 2 bolts where the pitman arm used to be. The bottom of the rack is this about even with the bottom of the cross member. Part of the "kit" is a single strip (1.0" x 3.0") bracket that is meant to be mounted on the driver's side using one of the pitman mount bolts. They include a heiman? joint/bearing that is attatched to this bracket where the steering shaft is intended to pass through , being directed thru/around the headers. It seems kind of flimsy and I intend to make a stronger one. I visited Flaming River and they were very friendly and helpful. I was told that this redirection of the steering column down through the headers was most always up to the builder, but they sell headers that make this very easy with the bracket supplied. In any case the headers must be installed to do this any I'm not there yet. Rear end time...
regards,
Ron
 

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Wow...what I would not give to have my 68 RS I had when I was 16 years old. Man, that is just a great story. Then to install engine with your sons on Father's Day. You are blessed my friend. :yes:

I am at some point going with the same R&P from Flaming River. Have you installed it yet and if so, was it simple to bolt on, etc. What was the worst struggle with the installation.

Again, great thread you started. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi,
WOW, a response! The color is the color of Pierre Water bottle that my wife picked. I went to the shop that was doing the welding/body work and showed them the bottle and that is what I got. She likes it and I'm happy about that.
I have some health problems that would not let me weld or do the other things that seem so well followed here. But I intend to do the best I can to finish this and document as I go. The Heidt's IRS is next and there doesn't seem to be many documented installs, so I'm going alone. I'm hoping that along the way I can shed insight, make a few friends and learn something. Thanks for your visit!!!
regards,
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi,
I bought the Heidt's IRS in 2010, before they had the complete bolt in unit. I contacted them and purchased the necessary brackets to make it so. Against their advice I had each of the parts powder coated, except the half shafts and center section. It was fitted to the chassis in the body shop and I intend to assemble and install it this weekend, Waiting for stainless bolts from McMaster Carr. The neat thing about it is that the way it is mounted in no way interferes with a standard rear end. So if it doesn't work out, I'm ok to remove it and put something else in. I picked it because I was impressed with the handling of a car I had with and IRS and I want this car to handle nice. Flying blind 3 years ago, but trying to do better now. This build will be like that, trying to learn and hoping to help.
regards,
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi,
I received my Holly MPFI kit today. Turns out last week I found out that the Stealth Ram manifold would not work with my heads as my head ports are too large for the manifold to properly seal. So I replaced it with the single plane Avenger kit. Just as well as I think installing the Dakota Digital cruise control will go a little easier this way. Has anyone installed this injection system in their car here? I compared it closely to the Edelbrock ProFlo XT system. Which is real nice. But I chose this in favor as the self tuning feature has gotten excellent reviews from users and their were no local tuners on Edelbrock's list near to me. Plan to document this install along with the ISIS wiring. Nice to have a clean slate and all but want to mount all these things in the right place the first time. Need to pick a radiator next, any suggestions? Need one with a trans cooler.
thanks in advance,
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi,
During the rack and pinion install, some issues. After getting the rack cradle bolted in, I screwed the outer tie rod ends (Ecklers) into the rack. You are instructed to measure from zerk to zerk on your old steering setup for the initial adjustment. Doing so the unit was 3 inches too longer than would yield a parallel condition at the front tires. FR specifies certain tie rod ends for this unit, the Ecklers part number was similar but not the exact MOOG part number. Ordered new MOOGs from Summit of the specific number. When installed in rack all was the same, NFG. Checked to see if my steering arms were correct (standard ratio), they were. So I took the rack to Flaming River here in Ohio.They checked out the unit and fount that the wrong inner tie rod ends were installed in the rack. they put the proper ones in and all is OK now. They were going through their initial ISO 9000 audit the day I was there, so this should never happen again (yuk). But there must be some units on shelves somewhere, so if you get one, there it is.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi,
Received a partial shipment of my ISIS wiring system today, only missing a powercell and the vintage air control module. I will be documenting every part of this so hopefully someone can steer me a bit and others can have something to help with their choices. My kit consists of a 3 cell starter kit, inReserve battery monitor, inLink key fobs, inTouchnet control, inVironment for the Vintage Air system, inMotion for the locks and windows, and an additional powercell for the cabin. I ordered it June 18th and just got the partial now, they must be busy. The installation manual is on their website if you want to reference. The supposed beauty of this thing is less wiring and customization ease. I'll have to stitch this together with the Holley injection harness along the way as well. We'll see how frigging happy it all gets, as there is not a wire in the car. I'll start with the battery in the trunk deal and move forward from there. I'm going as switch-less as possible and using the a touchscreen for everything. Also a push button start. The goal is a modern implementation.
thanks,
Ron
 

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That is going to be one sharp car, Dennis! Keep going... you're getting closer.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi,
Thank you for the kind words and encouragement. The chemo makes it tough to get almost anything done. I received all of what I need to complete the battery / remote starter solenoid in the trunk install. Looking at the battery tray, I was thinking that the large round radius in the corners might be a problem if someone wanted to use something other than an Optima battery. When I looked at the photo to order the tray, I selected a top strap mount instead of one with radius hold downs, I missed the corners being that way. I took and cleared the corners so a regular square cornered battery would fit, that way my kids won't have trouble in the future if they go that way. I decided to make a panel for the left side of the trunk to mount a disconnect switch, the starter solenoid, inReserve battery monitor disconnect solenoid, 1 powercell, the Mega fuse holders and a few other things. It got busy real quick but the switch, charging posts, starter cable connect and a button switch go behind the panel so it's not as bad as it looks. I'll cut a plexiglass panel to cover it with and put holes for the charging posts and disconnect handle. I read at another site that with an FI ECU being installed you should make sure to use a solenoid that has a suppression diode, so it looks kind of different from a regular Ford type.

Amazon.com: Victory Lap F492 Starter Solenoid for Ford: Automotive



I'll put it together tomorrow and move on to running the starter cable and grounds.

Thanks,
Ron
 

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