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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Q1) What are these two big holes on my firewall?
I couldn't find anything in the '69 AIM, but I'm guessing AC?
The project came with a standard heater box and standard controls, (no Air lever).
Q2) Has anyone figured out how to install heater box cover without pulling the passenger side front fender?

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Hi, I was in the same situation as you some months ago...

Q1. I have one hole there instead you have 2. My searches led me to the conclusion these are additions, not standard from the factory. I kept the hole, it is usefull for me : I am running the oil pressure sendor unit through it, and wiring of an additional ignition box fixed inside the cabin.
You can still decide differently and close/repair these holes with metal plate.
I don't use it for AC.

Q2. Yes I also did that, I am not remving the fender. I flexed my body under the car, I seated in the firewall place on the engine corssmember, and I installed a new heater delete plate. I could use my left hand to fix the plate using screws at the hidden area.
I used my old heater plate as a template for drilling fixing holes. I added a plate for hose passages.
There is fixing point on the VA box.
Here the plate check fit before painting.
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Also I added on the heater delete plate inside fender, a hole for wires passages I use for electrical fan, AC compressor 12V.
Fixed in place with short screwdriver, sitting on the engine crossmember.

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From the inside of the car, the kick panel vent is large enough to insert there an electric drill that you can use if needed..


Marc
 

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Block them off. The more holes you have, the more heat inside the car. You can install it without taking the fender off, it is tight.
 

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My 67 had dealer installed AC which was already removed when I got the car but holes (pic) were there and poorly covered and painted over with some form of very thick self stick metal tape.

When I was painting the engine compartment, I removed that hack and found, by chance, metal caps IIRC intended for round pole end caps for metal shelves or something. They were in a bin at a hardware store that has a huge nut/bolt section. They fit perfect and are metal so took paint well and, to me, provide a good-looking plug.

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I think you're talking about the push caps for electric breaker boxes. Ace is a good source for them.
 

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Not everyone’s answer to the hole repairs, but I’d weld some new steel in and make It like they were never there.

Looks like you have a clear area there and if you look around you will probably find more that could use some elimination. 😜

YMMV. 👍🏻
 

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Can use fiberglass cat hair on bare metal then paint over. As many restorers, you can use Rustoleum Professional enamel, cut with acetone and add a little Hardner. I mix 30% flat in with the gloss to get a satin finish. Cost is about $10 for a quart at Lowes, I even use it on lawn iron furniture. Looks great and holds up well and great for the under carriage and trunk then spatter, take only 1 can of spatter, then of course clear satin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think you're talking about the push caps for electric breaker boxes. Ace is a good source for them.
yeah it was an ACE hardware store that had them.
Service panel PushCaps, Brilliant idea!
I will paint first, little seam sealer, fold down the tabs from the inside and cover with Dynamat.
The firewall pad should cover it all.
Thanks guys, I'm headed to Ace in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can install it without taking the fender off, it is tight.
I tried and failed a couple times. I removed all bolts/bracket on inside skirt, removed fan, used prybar, still couldn't figure out how to squeeze the cover into place. Would love to hear more details / suggestions or see photos on how this is possible.
 

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Service panel PushCaps, Brilliant idea!
I will paint first, little seam sealer, fold down the tabs from the inside and cover with Dynamat.
The firewall pad should cover it all.
Thanks guys, I'm headed to Ace in the morning.
I didn't know what they were called until Keith posted but this is th kind I used. Just measure the hole size you have and get the size you need.

As shown in my pic in post above, I put them on the engine bay side. The inside has the firewall pad . They just snaped into place I painted them before install

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I tried and failed a couple times. I removed all bolts/bracket on inside skirt, removed fan, used prybar, still couldn't figure out how to squeeze the cover into place. Would love to hear more details / suggestions or see photos on how this is possible.
Un-bolt the inner fender from the outer fender in the rear to give you a little more room. It will still be bolted in the front.
 

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Un-bolt the inner fender from the outer fender in the rear to give you a little more room. It will still be bolted in the front.
Yes it is possible, but a pain. I have done it before myself. You can use wood blocks/wedges to hold it away as well as bungee cords or ratchet straps.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys.
I'll give it another try and post pics of my results.
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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You want to remove the fender to install a heater cover plate? You want pictures of fender removal or you want picture of the install of the heater cover plate?
 

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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I did my heater cover plate install from sitting in the engine bay, without unbolting anything. When the plate is fixed by the accessible bolts, you have left 2 bolts in the fender area. Go inside the car and through these screw holes use a thin white color pen to mark where to drill the holed.
Remove the plate, drill the holes and you'll get is in.
 

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Looks like the car is stripped down enough to make welding them up a pretty easy job. Panel plugs will work, but standout like a sore thumb.
 
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