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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
69 Camaro

I am going to build a sealed enclosure out of 3/4" mdf for a JL Audio 10" W0 sub that will be bolted up in the center of the rear deck inside the trunk, allowing the sub to fire thru into the car's interior.

My question is if anyone can provide advise on how to 'finish' it nicely. In other words I need to make it look good after I have cut the rear deck cover, jute padding, and sheet metal to allow the waves into the interior.

My thought was to cut the rear deck cover, jute padding, and sheet metal in a square fashion, about 1" larger than necessary for the actual speaker to see thru, then out of MDF create a 'wall' that sticks up maybe 3/4" from the box and creates a square border. I would then using some wood molding material or something create a frame that fits that border exactly, cover it in speaker mesh material (like you see on home speaker box covers) and then it would fit over the board on the inside, then using 3 screws (2 sides and 1 bottom) screw in horizontally from the frame into the border.

This would I think finish it off nicely but I wanted to get any comments I can or other ideas on how to make this work!
 

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I would not mess with the rear package tray until you install everything and hear what it sounds like. I have 2 JL 15W0's in the back of my 69 and did not have to cut any holes to let the sound get into the cabin. I have ton's of pics of 1st gen trunks finished with subs if you would like any for ideas. Good luck!!!
 

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all you need to get good sound to the interior is a well sealed trunk that acts like a big resonance chamber. i don't have any subs in my trunk- just a pair of OLD Cerwin Vega 6X9's running off a 300 watt Jensen amp that's about 6 years old, and it bumps pretty good. i've had stereo "experts" ask where i hid the subs at, and i take that as a compliment.
 

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I have a very small enclosure with a kicker solobaric 8" under the rear deck and between the wheeltubs on my tubbed 67. I mounted the sub on the inside of the box (bottom of the board). Then I just cut a 4" hole in the rear deck and used a small speaker grill to cover the hole. Brent
 

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Brian, if you are building a "tuned" sealed enclosure, you probably won't have to worry much at all about coupling to the cabbin. The only time you have to get real anal about that is if you using the trunk as an acoustical chamber. But generally the trunk won't give you a well tuned enclosure. It will be very resonant and rattle just about every loose part on the car. Follow a good design guide and build a properly sized sealed enclosure ( or ported if you must) for your speakers and set it in place. Low frequencies will find a way in.

-dnult
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, I am now going to build a sealed enclosure that fires the sub thru the rear seat. Just got done reupholstering the rear seat back and am positive this seat won't be preventing any bass from entering the car!! I'll just modify the new Jute Backing Board to have a cutout for the sub so that it doesn't get in the way.
 

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I'd like to see the photos of the 1st gen trunks with subs....

I need some ideas...
 

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I was told that you do not want to fire the sub in to the seat. You shoot it in to the trunk. I do not have a digital camera but I'll try to borrow on to show you what I did.

Rick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Scoop, although in most vehicles yes you can fire backwards and get a 'seemingly louder' bass wave, if you run an 18db crossover (Alpine F320 5 channel amp I am using has 18db crossovers), my understanding is the waves are shorter and thus it takes less distance for the wave to correct and be 'louder'
Also I don't want the bass vibrating in my 1969 TRUNK. Things are bound to rattle just from the fact that I am running a 10" sub, so I don't want to create any additional rattles if possible (License plate, Trunk Lid, etc)
 

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Also, keep in mind that if the speaker cone deflects 0.5" at full tilt boogie, the rear seat vinyl will only have to deflect about 0.010" to move the same air mass. I'm making up numbers here, but the idea is that the surface area of the seat is 10's of times larger than the cone. Acoustic attenuation below 100Hz or so is very small relatively speaking.

How many 10" speakers are you running - two? How much power? Just curious.

-dnult
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Single 10" JL Audio W0 sub, sealed enclosure, firing forward, powered by an Alpine MRP-F320 5 channel which will output 120 watts RMS at 4 ohms (180 peak) to the subwoofer.
I run this same amp in my Infiniti G35 to a JL Audio freeair 8IB4 and it does a great job, I only am looking for sound quality and not high SPL levels.
10W0 sub is designed for 125 watts continuous and .5-.9 cu ft of sealed space.

So you are telling me there might be an issue with the vinyl on the rear seat??

Alpine MRP-F320 Amp

Jl Audio 10W0 Subwoofer
 

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No problem with the vinyl. I'm just pointing out that the vinyl will not attenuate the base frequencies much at all. One reason is that the surface area of the seat is much greater than the speaker. For a given movement of the speaker cone, the seat vinyl will move a fraction of the distance - a good thing. So the vinyl should have no problem coupling the energy to the cab without the need for cutouts or modifications. If the back of the seat were solid, it would be a different story though.
 
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