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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
March 17/07Last night I painted a 1983 camero z28 in a garage.I had to open the door to let some overspray out. When I did that the difference in temp gave me two run's one on the right quarter and a small one on the bumper, both about 3.5 inches long. How long do i have to wait before i can sand and clear the car. I have never used this kind of paint and nor will i ever again. Do I have to sand the car before clear. The paint was omni ppg MAE. And the clear is MC270 4.2 Production Clear. thank you IAN DAVIS
 

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If its a metallic or pearl, ya dont usually want to sand on it. If ya do have to, youll need to touch it up before ya lay the clear. If its a solid color, you can probably get away with sanding them out but if it doesnt look right, it may need to be touched up too. Ideally you dont wanna touch the base before ya clear it IMO :)
 

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let that clear sit up a couple of days,we usually color sand and buff the next dayb but it does take a few days to get hard.i would eigther use a razor blade if yhere just sags .if the got drips on them use a paint stick wraped with some 800 or 1000 grit w/water.don't get to carried away,just do little at a time.follow up w/1500 and buff to perfection.hopefully u got plenty of claer on that baby.good luck buddy ,later
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
march 18/07

I sanded the run's out of the paint -it was not base coat it was ppg omni AE.
Were I sanded the run's I put a little bit of colour in those two spots and let it dry, tacked the whole car then aplied one coat of clear.
When I was finished I looked at the clear and the clear and the paint are having a reaction and the paint is cracking it look's like chicken feet but it is not the whole car on in spots. When the clear is dry can I sand the clear and reaply omni plus base coat and then reclearor am I opening up another can of worm's. I am open to ANY suggestions. PLEASE!!!!!

IAN DAVIS
 

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I was afraid that might happen. I have read here and on other forums that you can sand the basecoat, but I think that applies to the brand of paint. I have done it with R&M with no problems, and with Sherwin Williams products, it did just as you describe. Seen it with Sikkens too. Anyway, only you can see the type of damage you have, but it is my experience that you need to be sure it is cured, and lightly sand it, but do not go through the clear. the shiny spots are low places. Put a little 2 part glazing putty on it to fill them, and block it off. Now spot prime, sand the primer, do a blow in with base, and clear the whole panel, lightly sanding it of course. You can just do a blow in with the clear also, but different paint systems use different techniques for that and then have to be sanded and buffed in. If it is in a place where you can I would suggest clearing the whole panel. If you are not very familiar with buffing and the different materials needed to hide it you will probably get into another mess.
 
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