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Discussion Starter #1
I would like some opinions on my mechanical flat tappet setup and if you guys think my setup will survive long term.

Block - 427 (512 COPO) bored .030 over
Cam - Crane GM Blueprint 131141 (ZL1)
Lifters - Crane Mechanical F/T

I drive it around 3,000 miles/year. No racing, only street use, but will run it to have some fun occasionally.

I use Valvoline 10W-30 VR1 oil.

I am no engine expert by any means, but I do sit back and enjoy learning from the experts.

Thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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As long as you have a good set of poly locks and the rocker studs are flat on top you will be fine. I have had a mechanical roller cam for years (only about 10,000 miles) with Arp studs and Comp Cam poly locks and I check and adjust the valves once a year.
 

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Doug, he has a NON roller (flat tappet cam).

Matt, do you know which valve springs you are using and specs of those? And which rocker arms?

How many miles on it now since the break in procedure?

That is a good oil to use in my opinion.
 

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If it was broke in and has not wiped out a lobe yet then you are on your way. If your oil pressure is ok, then I would stay with the vr-1, if not go to the 20/50 VR-1 or the brad penn, no need for additional zddp additive with either oil. Spring pressure is the key during break in. The best solution is to break it in with only the outer springs and then add the inner after break in is done, change the oil and use the same break in oil for the next 300-500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doug, he has a NON roller (flat tappet cam).

Matt, do you know which valve springs you are using and specs of those? And which rocker arms?

How many miles on it now since the break in procedure?

That is a good oil to use in my opinion.
Crane valve springs #99893.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in):1.460 in.
Coil Bind Height (in):1.080 in.
Spring Rate (lbs/in):391 lbs./in.
Inside Diameter of Outer Spring (in):1.075 in.
Inside Diameter of Inner Spring (in):0.803 in.

Crane Rocker Arms #13801
Rocker Arm Ratio:1.7
Stud Size:7/16 in.
Maximum Spring Diameter (in):1.560 in.

I have about 1,000 miles on it since break in. Broke it in with Royal Purple. Engine on the dyno had peak HP at 527 at 6,300 RPM. Peak torque at 480 at 5,300 RPM. Engine has rectangular port 840 heads which I have heard produce high HP at very high RPM.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it was broke in and has not wiped out a lobe yet then you are on your way. If your oil pressure is ok, then I would stay with the vr-1, if not go to the 20/50 VR-1 or the brad penn, no need for additional zddp additive with either oil. Spring pressure is the key during break in. The best solution is to break it in with only the outer springs and then add the inner after break in is done, change the oil and use the same break in oil for the next 300-500 miles.
Oil pressure has been good. After we broke it in, checked the oil pan and opened up the filter. Everything looked good.

I just want to make sure that I am headed down the right path with this engine.
 

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Matt,

I think you are fine. Just keep an eye it when you change the oil for excessive wear and keep an eye on the valve adjustment.

The ramps on GM style cams are not that aggressive and should be OK. Problems tend to arise more with wilder cams and higher spring pressures.

The 840 heads are good for high RPM runs, but oval ports will beat them on the lower RPM range.

It was interesting you mentioned the 512 block. I am sure you know the 3963512 blocks were not COPO only blocks. They were used for the entire Chevrolet line from full size (Impalas/Caprice to Chevelles, Camaros and Corvettes) in 1969 for the 427 and 1970 for the 454. Is your car a COPO?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Matt,

I think you are fine. Just keep an eye it when you change the oil for excessive wear and keep an eye on the valve adjustment.

The ramps on GM style cams are not that aggressive and should be OK. Problems tend to arise more with wilder cams and higher spring pressures.

The 840 heads are good for high RPM runs, but oval ports will beat them on the lower RPM range.

It was interesting you mentioned the 512 block. I am sure you know the 3963512 blocks were not COPO only blocks. They were used for the entire Chevrolet line from full size (Impalas/Caprice to Chevelles, Camaros and Corvettes) in 1969 for the 427 and 1970 for the 454. Is your car a COPO?
Thanks for the feedback. I will keep an eye on the things that you mention.

No, car not a real COPO. This car has been restored to primarily COPO/Yenko specs. This engine has a '69 Camaro VIN stamp, the 3963512 block casting number along with an MN engine pad stamp. That was my basis for saying it was a COPO block.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I will keep an eye on the things that you mention.

No, car not a real COPO. This car has been restored to primarily COPO/Yenko specs. This engine has a '69 Camaro VIN stamp, the 3963512 block casting number along with an MN engine pad stamp. That was my basis for saying it was a COPO block.
Ah, so then it IS a COPO block. I see know.

Good luck. Sounds like a runner!
 

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Sorry, I meant to say I see "now". lol
 
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