Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My driver front floor pan has some heavy pitting and has a few pin (pin head) size holes. Aside from welding in a new one (which I can't do) Could I use a polyester filler or some sort of epoxy resin to fill then use por15 over? I will also do the bottom side of the floors with por15. I know some fillers are more resistant to moisture than others - what would be recommended? I thought of using a carbon fiber sheet with resin but not sure if that is the better route since the holes are pretty small.
 

·
Welcome Back - Senior Tech
Joined
·
890 Posts
Where is this pitting? If its near the front corner of the pan that means you could have some heavily rusted rockers and/or body perches. Why don't ya take some pictures?

If you still wish to use a filler you should use an epoxy kind I would think. I really liked POR's filler. Don't expect POR-15 to stick to filler or any other paint however, because it has little adhesion to these bases. Might want to use Chassis Saver instead
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
POR makes a kit for this. There's always fiberglass and polyester resin as well. Of course the "right" way it to cut out the bad sections and weld in new ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the input - I talked to 2 shops locally - neither was real interested in taking on the job of welding in new ones, at least in timely fashion. One shop recommended Marine tex - epoxy. So we'll give that a shot...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,295 Posts
You could use certain fillers and such. But you mention you cant weld in a new one.. Is this because you dont have/know how to weld? Im sure a small patch could be done if you have a friend that can weld?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Don't have a lot of space to work at it or the tools or the knowledge...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I'm not familiar with POR15 but does it have rust killer/inhibitors in it ?

If not i would suggest a heavy dose of rust killer/converter first if you're not going to weld in new sheet metal. Otherwise it seems to me that the rust will still progress and you'll be right back where you started very soon.


edited to add: nevermind, i'm an idiot. Just googled POR15 and see that it's just what the doctor ordered for rust
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
993 Posts
i just had to deal with the same situation. here's what i did and some pics...
i wire-wheeled the floor pan down to bare steel, sprayed eastwood rust encapsulator (similar to por15) on the rusty and pitted spots, used some quicksteel (which is an epoxy filler) on the larger holes and seam sealer on the pin-hole size holes. shot some semi-flat rustoleum on for a topcoat, and layed down a small sheet of dynamat as a backup before putting the original style sound deadener and new carpet in. it was pretty easy and i think it will hold up for a long time. my goal is to have the body-off resto and bodywork done in a couple of years (so, three or four years, realistically), so this is more of a temp fix. the pics shows the progress. hope this helps.

this is after pulling up the old carpet and noticing the metal floor pan plug had come loose and was letting water in. the rust was not as bad as the flash photo makes it seem: http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w154/guccieng/116_1629.jpg

this is after wire-wheeling the floor pan: http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w154/guccieng/116_1669.jpg

here's a blurry close up of what i had to deal with: http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w154/guccieng/116_1676.jpg

this is after the plug is re-sealed and quicksteel and seam sealer in place with a spray-bomb topcoat: http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w154/guccieng/118_1849.jpg

finished product for motivation: http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w154/guccieng/118_1861.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,213 Posts
I did the floors on a 1950 Buick I have and one side was totally rusted through and "lacey". It has some distinctive shapes and valleys and I used fiberglass resin. I totally wire-brushed it to bare metal and then used fiberglass mats and resin and built it up into layers to match the floor design. When it had built up to what I thought was thick enough, I used undercoating on it. I stood on the floor and bounced on it (you can almost stand up in it) and it was as solid as the steel was, or more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yeah - mine look like that. What are you using a wirewheel on? I only have a drill and man it takes a long time...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,213 Posts
Die grinder with a wire wheel chucked in it is what I use. Or an angle grinder with a wire cup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
guccieng-Holy Smokes!! How long did it take you to wire wheel that floor? It looks like it's been plated!! Nice job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
993 Posts
guccieng-Holy Smokes!! How long did it take you to wire wheel that floor? It looks like it's been plated!! Nice job.
i used a drill with a 4 inch coarse crimped wire wheel. more like 5 or 6 of them! i'd guess about 8 to 10 hours of manual labor and a whole lot of dust. call it a labor of love! surprisingly, i didn't get any flash rusting at all when it was bare metal. must be that good 'ole california weather?
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top