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It's an oil additive and there are many out there... STP, Marvels Mystery Oil etc. It's not going to do any magic fix but wouldn't hurt if you added it. I tend to believe fuel additives that clean varnish from the cylinder and valve will produce better results. If it helps break up sludge and crud buildup that is a good thing unless the sludge is what was keeping the engine from leaking oil in the first place...
 

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Detergent oils were bad to use on an old engine. I know many a good running old engine that was junk after they put in detergent oil. Cleaned it out .... :( too good. The new high milage oil they have out is probally no better than using a straight weight 40 or 50 oil.
Kev
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Guys :cool:
 

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garfiel,
Do you have a problem with the engine ?? If not, leave it alone and just keep changine the oil regularly. My 84 S-10 has almost 270k miles on it and absolutely nothing has been done to the engine other than change the 5W30 Mobil 1 every 5000 miles or so. My Wifes 84 Riviera just turned 140k ... same thing, nothing ever done to the engine, Mobil 1 since new. In over 30 years of driving I have never used any type of oil additives.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its just that I have a small problem with the Check Engine light the comes on intermittedly. I've checked everything from the spark plugs and wires, to the hoses, to checking the gas cap making sure that its on tight and I can't seem to be able to find the source of the problem. This all started after I changed the spark plugs and wires around early december.

When I first bought it at 97,000 miles, the light problem appeared for about a month, then suddenly went away, I took it to Autozone for a free engine diagnosis, but they said that it they can only check cars 1996 and above (my van is a 95). Now a 117,000 miles the check engine problem is back again. Its not constant though, it seems to come and go just like before.
 

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ok, the check engine light, or malfunction indicator lamp, is telling you there is something wrong with the car that one of the sensors can detect. Something is falling out of parameter. Adding restore fills the cylinder wall and helps restore combustion. I used it in my 95 z71 just to see if it helps. It takes about 500 miles, but yes you can feel the increase in power, so it is worth the 8 bucks.

As, for your check engine light, it could be anything. I would say, find a shop who can diagnose the light and go from there..it could be and evap code, which is a pain to correct and personally would not worry about to a o2 sensor, which you should fix. It could be alot is what I am getting at, but the restore will not correct it. I think you vehcile is an OBD1 vehicle, while everything now is OBD2?
 

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A few years ago I got rid of an '89 S10 Blazer with 320,000 miles. I swear it was because I put in a bottle of Slick50 with every oil change (every 3,000 miles) after it hit 100,000 miles. I never had any major problems with the Blazer. I only got rid of it because I started to feel the transmission slipping and I figured it was time.
 

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I used the restore before and the car did seem to have more power for about the first 1000 miles. It would go back to normal for the next 2000 miles and I would change the oil and add the restore again. Same thing, good for about 1000 miles of daily driving. I am in agreement with the others though, it is not going to help with a code being set off.
 

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I add a quart of Dura-Lube at every oil change.:yes:
 

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get yourself a paper clip and find out what code is being set.
 

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I swear it was because I put in a bottle of Slick50 with every oil change
That was meant to be added as a once off every 80,000 miles...
I used that since the late 70s on everything from my vintage (50s)B&S reel lawn mower, wifes car and classics/vintage cars to off roader racers and forumula fords open wheelers....
But I can no longer get it in NZ, anyone able to help out for a source?
 

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That was meant to be added as a once off every 80,000 miles...
I used that since the late 70s on everything from my vintage (50s)B&S reel lawn mower, wifes car and classics/vintage cars to off roader racers and forumula fords open wheelers....
But I can no longer get it in NZ, anyone able to help out for a source?
Slick 50 NZ Ltd

Address: Call Free
Phone number: 0800 754 255

Listed in Fuel & Oil Additives

http://yellowpages.co.nz/Pages/Search/Results/Cached/0,2837,a6001_c1222_l0_m0,00.html

Kev..
 

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unsubstantiated claims of DuraLube or Slick 50.
In '78 a couple m8s who took out the offshore boat Champs in Italy tried it for a season..after each meet the engines where stripped...was the 1st season a bearing shell or anything didnt need changing..
Same on my Formula ford and off road engines...
And the lawn mower 50 yrs old now and still in use.
And the Camaro engine after 150,000 miles on LPG dedicated and stripped down...expected more wear than if was running petrol...way less, next to nil!!!

And thanks for the contact 68
much apprectiated will ring tomorrow morning.
 

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There are two Slick50 products I purchase. One is recommended for use below 75,000 miles and it is recommended to use ever other oil change. The other is a smaller bottle and is for high milleage and is recommended for every oil change.

I too am/was not convinced about the usefulness of these types of products. But with 320,000 on a 4.3l something was helping. I changed the plugs and wires at 100,000 miles, I changed the air filter a few times and I went through about 3 or 4 alternators. Thats it. The engine was running strong when I got rid of it.

I'm pushing 150,000 miles on my 1999 blazer and am getting the same results so far.
 

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isn't Slick 50 just Quaker State oil with Teflon added to it?
 
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