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I’m thinking about putting frame connectors on my 68 to give it some rigidity. Anyone have them now that didnt before? Id like to hear opinions , pros and cons if anyone is willing to share.
thank you
 

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They are definitely worth getting, IMO.
Possibly THE best upgrade to first & second gen Camaro's.

I bought / installed the Hotchkis SFC's and really like their fit.
 

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Moroso/SRD had a set not requiring floor cut-up.
A definite good event having performed. Ensure vehicle is straight before/during installing procedure.
 

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Our second car is a 69 RSSS Camaro vert that I bought in 1978, 6 figure miles before the odometer quick. Painted in 84, Stills show well and performs very good. Been maintained over the years as needed. Poly bushings that squeak, annoying, new front end and several sets of tires on Vette rims. Handles well for a 50 year old. Not a major difference from my other 4 that have the upgrade stuff! Now I am thinking of adding frame connectors!!!!
 

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Install solid body bushings when you do this.
Op

People will have opinions on solid vs poly vs rubber body mounts. I prefer rubber. I installed OER ones along with new bolts/washers/nuts (all included in kit). The old, originals, while flattened, lasted 52 years. These OER rubber, they are not soft rubber, will out live me. YMMV
 

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Absolutely put them in, I have the DSE weld in connectors with their solid mounts. Poly mounts will probably work but read the info on the connectors without doing a solid mounts and you can decide. Biggest difference for the money I have done to the car hands down.
Camaro Body Bushings - Resto Shop
Exactly. One way to think about it. From the factory, the subframe and body are only attached by a few bolts. Essentially they can flex relative to each other as two separate parts on the mounts (were talking small movements). The subframe and everything attached to it probably weigh close to a half a ton. The body, rear suspension and everything weigh another ton or more. As you go down the road vibration inputs come from the engine, trans, and the road surfaces (through the tires) exciting the two different masses at a different rates, but again it's not tied together rigidly.

With subframe connectors, you've now tied that subframe rigidly to the rear of the body. If you only have rubber, that flex point in front is inducing a lot of stress on the subframe connector and back to the unibody where it attaches. And over time as that rubber ages, it'll add progressively more stress. So not only have you given up some the the benefit of having subframe connectors, but you've induced stress on the underbody which could cause microcracks over time.

If you're going to weld them in, use solids. There's a reason many SFC manufacturers either recommend them or even include solid mounts with the SFCs as a package.
 

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I put on a set of Comp Engineering bolt-in frame connectors back in the early 1990's, zero complaints. Would do it again if the occasion ever arose again.
 

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Frame to sub frame to no frame. Just more things to add $$$ to.It helps a bit. My stock 69 with new rubber and new stock suspension seems more solid over rough roads than my 05 Z-51!!!!
 

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i plan to get these
suspension geek gives i think 10% discount for pro touring members
 

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Ridetech makes good stuff. I have their lowering springs...but for SFC I got Summit brand which are considerably cheaper. I did drill and install x bolts through the front part as bolts were included. You can weld these in but I want to be able to remove sub-frame if I ever needed to


I see the Ridetech are slightly curved to follow the floor pan but mine fit great and do what SFC do.
 

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I've got a pair of Competition Engineering connectors, waiting until I finish building the new 8.5 10-bolt rear and go from mono leaf to Hotchkis 1.5" springs. I think you want to get the car settled at the right height before welding in the rears, bolting in the fronts with solid bushings. I will probably tack weld the fronts once everything is done, but like others, you always think about whether the subframe might need to come off. Welding the fronts will be a decision down the road.

Mike
 
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I think someone posted pics of a subframe connection they made that looked really good, bolted together but was really trick looking. Anyone know what I'm referring to and have the pics?
 

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It may be just me, but any of the bolt-ins strike me as stabilizing the subframe to unibody connection mostly along the length of the car - fore/aft - rather than stiffening the subframe to unibody connection against twisting. I used DSE weld in SFCs, welded two long 1/4" by 1.5" (IIRC) "ears" on each side of the subframe, sleeved the SFCs so they wouldn't collapse when the bolts were tightened and used two 1/2" Grade 8 bolts on each side. It's pretty stiff but I can still pull the subframe should the need arise.
 

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It may be just me, but any of the bolt-ins strike me as stabilizing the subframe to unibody connection mostly along the length of the car - fore/aft - rather than stiffening the subframe to unibody connection against twisting. I used DSE weld in SFCs, welded two long 1/4" by 1.5" (IIRC) "ears" on each side of the subframe, sleeved the SFCs so they wouldn't collapse when the bolts were tightened and used two 1/2" Grade 8 bolts on each side. It's pretty stiff but I can still pull the subframe should the need arise.
Competition Engineering bolt in. Had jack stands up front and taking them out jacked up one side, removed the jack stand from drivers side, released the jack and it did not move. No twist.
 
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