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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I think i'm finally about ready to make the leap out of the 60's and put discs on my 4x power drum 1968 camaro. Any advice on who's got the best deal on the conversion kit? I would like power front discs only. My new engine makes 16-17" vacuum. (enough for power brakes?) Nothing crazy, just the basics. I'm running on 15" rallys. Shipping cost is a factor. MP brakes wanted 300.00usd to ship to canada (our dollar already sucks!) Thanks all!
 

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Are you looking for a stock type setup or an upgrade to a Bear type system? I personally would recommend the JL8 type brakes because I like the idea of using GM parts that were available for Camaros. MP sells a kit, but you can also piece one together for a lot less.

Calipers $87/piece
Rotors $60/piece
Brackets $150 on eBAY
Power Booster and Master Cylinder $140
Prop valve $90
SS Hardlines $180 for a car set
SS Flex lines $80

This system fits under a stock Rally wheel.

Also check on David Pozzi's site. He has great deal of info on converting to brakes using single piston calipers that are readily available. You need to decide what you need out of your brakes though.
 

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Check out this thread it has some options and a bit of discussion surrounding two popular kits. Spend some time searching the archives, there's a lot of good info on brake swaps. 16-17" is plenty. As far as shipping, Matt's Classics is on the West Coast while MPP is on the East Coast.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks guys,
I'll check out that thread. I agree entirely with the JL8 parts avail. theory. I was looking at this new Baer kit (super street) that fits inside fact. ralleys and bolts to drum spindles. But the cost is a bit more (for fewer parts) and although trick, parts are also more exotic (zr-1 vette) and expensive to replace. I was looking at the MP brakes kit too. I've considered assembling a kit before, but would rather not risk e-bay parts (i've been burned before!). Plus the kit looks right with all the right cad plating and finishes. Has anyone used and installed this kit before?
 

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The availability of parts actually falls towards the newer PBR systems more than that of the older JL8/J56 parts. Besides the fact that you can purchase parts for the PBR systems at Ford, GM/GMC and Chrysler (as well as every parts store across the country; not so with the older JL8/J56 systems)....since they have all used the same systems on curent production models but there are also more aftermarket parts available as well. These systems were not just for what you consider 'exotic' they did afterall come on factory Camaros and Mustangs......

And as for price, there really isnt that much difference except for the start up costs of the PBR type because of custom brackets for the drum brake spindles. The kits do come complete with a master, all hardware, stainless lines, alloy hubs...etc just like the other kits, with replacement costs just the same as the older JL8/J52/J52. Rotors are still $100.00 either way ($80 or less through brake specialty shops like "One Stop Undercar"), and the pads are just as cheap for either system. Although more expensive in the initial purchase, in the long run they will be cheaper to maintain.

I have run the older JL8/J56/J52 systems and had excellent results (with the use of $175.00 pads to get close to the PBR performance)......but the newer PBR systems weigh MUCH less and do out perform the older systems with a measurable difference. The replacement parts for the older systems now falls under the Corvette profile (when you go find replacement parts from your local autoparts store) and anything you put the Corvette name on is going to be more expensive (unlike the PBR because it came on and in still available on other production vehicles). And you still would need to purchase a set of disk spindles as well to finish it off......more money......

There really isnt that much of a cost difference when you add up what you will need to put an older system together......and you wont loose with the purchase of either system, but the PBR is a better purchase and will offset operating costs over that of the older systems.

Dont get me wrong, I have used the older stuff and know how to make it work (under 120' 60-0).....and it works very well.....but the PBR systems win hands down. And if you upgrade later, a simple bracket and rotor change is all you need to goto 13".....
 

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Chicane67 when your refering to the PBR calipers do you mean 1989-95 J55 Y-Car Caliper (13") or the 1989-94 JL9 Y-Car Caliper (12").

I just want to be clear because J8 L55 sound close and Know they are the prior generation but I want to be sure your saying the the newer PBR calipers offer better braking

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the replys!
Am i mistaken in understanding that PBR brakes have interchangable parts from different manufacturers? When you talk about PBR brakes, are you refering to floating vs. fixed calipers? I'm afraid i'm not accustomed to the alphabet soup lingo just yet!

P.S.-Mountie - from vancouver eh? Where abouts? We should talk...
 

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Mountie- Yes.....well sorta. The caliper was used on the Y platform as well as the F. They are the same calipers on both chassis. The calipers from 86 to 93 are of the same build and the 93 to 97 are of the improved, thicker bodied design. The later calipers (93-97) dont have the reinforcement ribs on the surface of the caliper because the actual caliper body itself is much thicker and the added material actually filled in the ribs on the older type PBR calipers.

The latest PBR caliper used on the Y and F chassis (98+) is a totally different design all together. The caliper itself is much larger than its predecessor.

apprentice- Yes.....they are of a 'floating' design, not fixed.

Take a look at this. It will show the difference in appearence.
 

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Performance Suspension Technologies (PST) sells SSBC kits for a reasonable price. I'm currently installing the front SSBC power disks I purchased through PST on my formally manual drum 68. So far things are fitting up nicely. The only hitch I've run into is, I haven't quite figured out how to make the manual push rod and clevis work with the new power booster yet and the instructions are not clear. If anyone has a pointer or two on this part of the install/swap from manual drum to power disk, I'd appreciate a note. Thanks! Tim
 

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Meanchicken...your kit should include a new rod on the booster with pin and clevis all ready to go!!!! Im sure they have to include that in the kit we all pretty much do!

Matt's
 
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