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1969 Z28
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to swap out my mechanical fuel pump and rod and had two questions:

1. Do I need to drop the engine oil beforehand? If not, how much oil might I expect to come out?

2. Is TDC the crank position where the I can insert the rod furthest inside the engine?

Thank you
 

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You won’t lose any significant amount oil. Oil will (pretty much) all be in the pan.

I just installed a new fuel pump day before yesterday.

With the pump off you can turn the motor using the damper bolt to allow the rod to be pushed in to the limit. I don’t know if TDC is an indicator of where the fuel pump cam is in its cycle.
 

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I'm going to swap out my mechanical fuel pump and rod and had two questions:

1. Do I need to drop the engine oil beforehand? If not, how much oil might I expect to come out?

2. Is TDC the crank position where the I can insert the rod furthest inside the engine?

Thank you
The rod will not want to stay in, so apply some chassis grease around it before putting it in. This will hold it in place until you install the pump.
 

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I was not installing a new rod, so I could not pack the rod with grease. In your case I can see that as an easy trick.

If the grease fails, I was able to start the pump in ... then using a long screwdriver from above hold the rod back while the pump lever dropped down in front of it.
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Assuming this is a small block. There is a threaded hole accessible from the front of the engine that interests the push rod hole. There should be a short bolt in there now. Remove it and use a longer bolt to temporarily hold the push rod and install the pump. Remove the long bolt and replace it with the one removed. Piece of cake.
 

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I was not installing a new rod, so I could not pack the rod with grease. In your case I can see that as an easy trick.

If the grease fails, I was able to start the pump in ... then using a long screwdriver from above hold the rod back while the pump lever dropped down in front of it.
New rod/old rod-same installation procedure. You dont need alot.
 

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OP

Do as Al says about R&R the dummy plug bolt, it's about 1/2" long, and use a longer, same thread (3/8" IIRC) and just finger tighten that bolt which will bottom out against the PR, This bolt is around the 7 o'clock position if looking at timing cover from front of car. Easy to get to from underneath. Don't have a pic but google should

It is easier to install FP with motor at #1 TDC as there will be less spring resistance from FP

No oil will come out of the hole FP is in. Its above oil level in pan

If replacing push rod, you will need the other gaskey for the plate the FP mounts to as it will have to come out to get PR out...or retrieve PR is you reuse it and it drops.

A glob of stiff grease will hold up the PR...if you don't wait too long to put in FP
 

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1969 Z28
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes I was informed about the grease trick when I installed the current pump, it worked well, though I had to struggle a bit with the pump itself which may have been because the rod position was furthest toward the pump. I thought I heard somewhere, not sure if it was here or some instructional video on youtube, about TDC being the position where the rod is furthest inside the block. I already have it at TDC because I’m replacing the distributor.
 

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New rod/old rod-same installation procedure. You dont need alot.
I thought the same and could not get enough grease at the tip of the rod to hold it up.

Hence, the screwdriver.

Given the choice between screwdriver trick

or

Pull the short bolt and find a longer bolt and insert it then pull the longer bolt and replace the original bolt.

I'll stick to the screwdriver trick ... took about 15 seconds. ;)
 

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Yes I was informed about the grease trick when I installed the current pump, it worked well, though I had to struggle a bit with the pump itself which may have been because the rod position was furthest toward the pump. I thought I heard somewhere, not sure if it was here or some instructional video on youtube, about TDC being the position where the rod is furthest inside the block. I already have it at TDC because I’m replacing the distributor.
The rod rides against the camshaft lobe, so if you rotated the engine……
 

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I thought the same and could not get enough grease at the tip of the rod to hold it up.

Hence, the screwdriver.

Given the choice between screwdriver trick

or

Pull the short bolt and find a longer bolt and insert it then pull the longer bolt and replace the original bolt.

I'll stick to the screwdriver trick ... took about 15 seconds. ;)
You dun gotsta put the grease on the end to about 1/4 of the rod befer install.
 

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I have used all of those methods and they all work. Caution if you use the bolt it takes very little pressure to hold the rod. DO NOT over tighten. DO NOT forget to change the bolt back or you will have serious issues.
 
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