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Discussion Starter #1
After a hard acceleration I get a stong odor of raw fuel in the cabin of my '67. It's a TF327 with a Holley 600 (4150) on a Edelbrock high rise intake. I've replaced the fuel lines and checked them for leaks. The carb is sound also. I have no problems with idle and it pulls good vacuum. Is this normal? One thing...after shutting down a warm engine, if I try to restart it acts like the battery is low till I pump the accelerator a couple of times, then it'll catch and start fine. Cold engine starts are normal after I prime the carb with a accelerator pump. It's got an electric choke.
 

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For the fuel smell, you might do another quick check on the float levels. They may be set just a touch high allowing some raw fuel to spill over and give you the smell.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks...I didn't think about the starter. It's an original with no heat shield. I'll give it a try.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by HwyStarJoe:
I would guess that the hard starting after it's warmed up is that the starter is getting too much heat from the engine and/or headers, if you have them. If it's pretty new, I'd try an aftermarket heat shield on the starter or or the header pipes around the starter.
Good luck.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks...If I need to adjust lower than speck, what's a good initial adjustment?
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by denverRS/SS:
For the fuel smell, you might do another quick check on the float levels. They may be set just a touch high allowing some raw fuel to spill over and give you the smell. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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Check your gas cap on this one. I had never smelled gas and one day during a cruise it just started smelling so bad it burnt your eyes. Turned out thanks to someones advice here the cap was not on correctly and putting it back right resolved it.

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...Dennis
"The '69, the '96 & the club"
 

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On Holleys, there is a plug on each of the bowls that will unscrew if you use a large flat blade screw driver. The float level is set with another large screw on top of the bowl. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw to raise or lower the float level.
I must agree with the post on the heat getting to the starter. Same thing happened to me. If you have a speed shop in your area, they will most likely sell a "blanket" that will fit over the starter. It is aluminum on one side. Your starter may be getting very tired, it may be worth taking it in to have it tested while you have it apart for the blanket. One last thought on the starter, where the post comes out of the starter for the cable to attach to, there are two nuts. One nut secures the post to the starter itself. The second nut secures the cable to the starter post. It is very easy for the nut holding the post to come loose. Make sure the post is in secure to the starter or it will give you headaches.
 

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Also on the hot start alot of chevy small block owners have used remote soloniods mounted on the wheelwell to solve this problem, also check your timing. Do a search on the soloniod for the low down on the fix
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've really got no idea what duration the cam is in my car. I know it's more than normal, but slight and my idle's fairly smooth. What's a general setting for a mild cam on a 327? I've got a Pertronix Ignitor upgrade to my distributor.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by clash69:
Also on the hot start alot of chevy small block owners have used remote soloniods mounted on the wheelwell to solve this problem, also check your timing. Do a search on the soloniod for the low down on the fix <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
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