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I recently cleaned up all the wiring under my dash and noticed my fuse box had foil over the instrument lighting fuse. I pulled it out along with the fuse and replaced it with a new 4amp fuse (short stubby fuse). Unfortunately my dash lights are still not working with the new fuse. Do I need to put a higher amped fuse in there? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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First, grab ahold of the headlamp switch knob, pull out knob to the first notch, and twist the bejesus out of it.
This action should remove any burn spots and make for better contact.
If this does not work, use a meter or test light, ensure power on both sides of the fuse.
Power comes from h/lamp switch to fuse to lights, gray wire.
 

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Yeah that did nothing. I noticed the fuse contacts have a little bit of rust on them (original fuse box). My question is what amp output should the instrument panel light fuse be?
 

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By OE design, 4 amps, for the fuse. Check the bulb numbers for the proper bulb number for the location.
Any more bulbs added on due to the installation of other aftermarket devices would put a higher demand of power.
You might take a Q-tip and emery paper and alcohol and clean the contacts.
 

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Grounds
 

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Have you taken a test light or volt meter and checked to see that you have power going into the fuse holder when the light switch is turned on AND power coming out of the 4 amp fuse if you do have power going in when the light switch is on?

If you do have power going into the fuse, is the fuse blowing?

If power is going into the fuse holder AND the fuse is NOT blowing, you must have an open in the wiring from the fuse holder to the dash lamps. You just need to trace the wiring from the fuse holder towards the dash lamps and see where the electrical break/open is in the wiring. Could also be the dash lamps don't have a good ground, you need both sides of the circuit to be "complete" for light to happen.

If instead power IS going into the fuse holder AND the fuse keeps blowing, you must have a short OR too large of a current demand as Everett mentioned above, possibly due to additional lamps or other electronics getting power from this circuit.

If a short circuit appears to be the problem, you can purchase a short circuit tester kit which consists of an automatic resetting thermal circuit breaker that you temporarily install in place of the fuse, and a small handheld inductive amp meter that you hold along the wiring which will deflect the handheld inductive amp meter needle in the direction of the location of the short. If/when you get past the location of the short, the needle will point the opposite direction. This is an invaluable tool for tracking down the location of a short.

Scott
 

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x3 on check your grounds especially if this is a 67 or 68. Once you establish that you do have power from the rheostat out toward the bulbs.
 
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