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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey thought i would ask i am building a new garage, 30x50 and was wondering if anyone out there plumbed there garage with ahrd line for there air supply?? also what is best to use , pvc, and or black iron??? please let me know, also is it best to pitch it a bit so moisture will go to end where you can have a collector??? i was thinking pvc but not sure, does anyone have a diagram for this?? i think i remember seeing a hot rod tc segment on running hard line in your garage for your air supply, thanks for the help\
Jake
 

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Use iron pipes if possible. Have the pipes up high, and it should be angled to allow moisture to be caught in a seperator if you have one. Go to a university library, and you can find tons of info on this. More than you ever thought there was.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks i will check into that and yes i will pitch them so the moisture will go to the seperators, i saw on hotrod tv they used pvc, but anyway thanks
jake
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hey 69lemans what tire sizes do you have on your car??? looks verynice,, did you spray it?? anyways thanks for the pics, oh ya does the moisture go to the traps when you run the pipes high and come straight down to seperator?? thanks alot
Jake
 

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1/2 or 3/4" schedule 40 cast iron pipe is a very good choice. Black pipe that's had a corrossion treatment is called a "pickeled" pipe, close to galvanized but without the flaking problems. Lemans 69 has the right idea,extend and terminate your pipe below the airline fitting and put a gate valve on it so you can drain the water that will collect here. Install a separator before the fittings, cost about $85. Most also have a filter in them to "final" filter for use. Keeping your shop at a constant temperature is just as important.
 

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I have over 400 feet of 1" schedule 40 pvc pipe in my shop, 10 years of use at 175 lbs air pressure.
I did my two car garage 20 yrs ago, 125 psi, it's 175 now that I connected it to my shop compressor.

Our farm shop has 200' of same, at 175 psi, 20 years old.

I have two friends with 50'X100' shops that are done in the same type/size pipe, probably 300' each, they are 15 yrs old and at 175 psi.

Schedule 40 is rated at 450 psi, the glue is important for strength of the joints, as the joints are weaker than the pipe.
Heat can weaken the pipe too, I live in a coastal area and it doesn't get to 100 degrees but a couple of days a year.

I used the two step primer/grey glue proccess. My buddies used the clear one step glue.

I ran my pipe overhead in the roof perlins wtih drop pipes down the walls, so most of the pipe is 20' above my head, only the drops are near anyone.

Smaller dia pipe is even higher pressure rating.

I hear all the time how bad PVC is for compressed air, and I certainly don't want to be around one if it blows...

But I've seen it work with no problems at all in my area. Maybe if I'd read all the warnings before having good results, I'd have used something else, but my experience runs contrary to the warnings.

PVC has a great insulating quality that reduces heat transfer, the pipe is inert and doesn't give off rust or metal flakes.

It is easy to upsize the pipe to 1" and gain air storage capacity if you have a smallish air tank.
I left a foot of drop below the wall outlet fitting, and put a draincock on it to catch moisture.
If you put a ball valve on each air fitting and close off the unused fittings, the air will stay in the system with out bleeding down overnight.

The quick couplers all leak very slightly, if an air hose is plugged in to one, it leaks even more. If you only have one or two couplers, it isn't a big deal, but in a shop with 10 or 20, it can leak down a lot.
David

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67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
 

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I use the 1" PVC tubing in our shop too.

That Hod Rod TV episode that showed how-to with PVC, the next week they did a disclaimer, saying that they had heard from a lot of people citing the dangers.

If the PVC was to get damaged by running something into it, it could shatter in many sharp pieces.

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How about inserting the PVC inside a larger metal pipe or installing a metal shield?

I didn't like the idea of corrosion with the metal pipe, but I fear the explosion of the PVC (pozzi has been lucky).

Personally, I'm still using flexible hose...

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David
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I too took the cheap route and used rubber.

At Harbor Freight tools they had a sale on 50' Goodyear hose with 1/4" NPT ends for $10. It does need a condensation drain. Routing the rubber line couldn't be easier, but it is a bit more dangerous than some type of hard-line.

Five years and mucho summer heat with no problems, but I religiously turn off the main ball valve and power every night. I placed a pilot light on the switchbox that sticks out like a sore thumb when I forget to turn it off.

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[This message has been edited by CarlC (edited 09-26-2002).]
 

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BBCamaro, the pics in the garage have 235/60/15's all around, they're the tires off my wife's car. I spray tomorrow. Answer to last ? is yes. The main pic has 215/65/15's on front with 255/60/15's on the back.
jamie

[This message has been edited by 69lemans (edited 09-27-2002).]
 

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Anything wrong with 1/2 or 3/4 inch copper with soldered joints. Every shop in my area uses this. I had it in my previous shop and it works great. I can see the larger diameter pipe if you want to run multiple tools at once, but for a home shop I just went with half inch pipe.

I haven't plumbed my new shop yet (need to build car and get shop emptied before crackfill & paint), so I'm curious if there's any reason to change my plan.

Thanks
Robb

PS - I always shut off the compressor when not in the shop. If a line bursts, like the plastic coil line hanging over the bench, I don't want the compressor to run steady unitl it overheats!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey thanks alot for the replies i think i will go with 3/4 black iron pipe as i work for myself, doing auto repair and collision work and want it so you could run a couple tools at once , i have a 7.5 hp 2 stage compressor so i have enough air and want to do it once, so i should route the pipe up high and have drop downs where i want my air to be??? also should i run pipe just to regulator?? or run it a bit by it and have a shutoff i can drain once in a awhile?? thanks alot, oh ya is copper alright?? what is the pressure rating on copper??
Jake

[This message has been edited by BBCamaro (edited 09-27-2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
david, so the only real problem with pvc is if something smacks it when it shatters you could have trouble??? i like the idea of plastic but probaly by the time you buy sched 40 it is close to black iron which won't shatter, but let me know on how you set yours up?? did you run it at a normal height and just pitch it so the water runs to the end where you can have a seperator then just t in regulators where you want an air supply, thanks alot
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
z11 , what pressure do you run ?? 175psi also do you know what copper is good for??? thanks alot
jake
 

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I came across this website while looking at different types of paint guns. It has 'Shop Air Piping Layout Diagrams' to give you ideas on how to design it.
http://www.sharpe1.com/dr-pipe.htm

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1969 Z/28 - owned since 1971 - garaged since mid 1980s - in the process of restoring it
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In my opinion the copper is preferred. It does not rust out, is easy to work with,(try cutting and threading black iron to make an odd length), holds up under extreme use. Every major building uses copper tubing to run every pneumatic device, that's a lot of air volume at 140psi for years. I have replaced more compressors than tubing. As for the non-shattering of iron, ask any plumber how to remove BI, they whack it with a big hammer. The stuff breaks very easily.
 

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I use 3/4" copper Type L (L is thicker than M, M works fine also) with sweated joint. Its more expensive than black steel pipe, but sweating fittings is a whole lot faster and easier than threading pipe. I have my water trap 30' away from the compressor to allow for as much condensation as possible. Definitely slope your piping run so condensation runs toward your trap or back to the compressor tank.
 
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