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Pulled the ins. panel out of my '68 today because the gauge lights are no longer working.
When we first bought & restored the car in '05-0'6 the gauges worked, then stopped, then about a year later the back lights for the gauges (the nice green glowing ones) started working again, then they have not worked since. The idiot lights work, high beam indicator and turn signals, but not the backing lights.
I noticed the flex panel circuit isn't really glued down anymore, and many of the bulbs are burned out. If the circuit board is dead, wouldn't all of the lights in the dash be out? Should I replace the board along with the bulbs?
Also, which bulbs are correct for the backing lights, turn signals, and idiot lights?
One other thing, the dome light used to work, then when I closed the door one day, the light stayed on? Couldn't get it to turn off, even when twisting the dimmer, pulled the light and unplugged the wire from the door plunger to prevent shorting.

Now onto my next and most important question, I was looking at the wiring since I was looking for an auxilary spot to run other electronics from and found the hot lead going to the coil was actually spliced into the original ballast wire, since all the places in my fuse block are taken, where can this be run from, also, how difficult is it to install a new engine harness, mine looks like an accident waiting to happen, wires are good, but the plug in the fire wall looks terrible.
Thanks in advance, sorry for being long winded.

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Also, thought this was very cool, I love finding original stickers, markings, writing on these cars, so far mine all matches up, not that it matters since I'll never sell it, just think it's neat:
 

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The engine harness is very easy to replace. Remove the bolt you see in the center of the plug, and pull both harness plugs straight out. The two harness plugs (engine & front harness) will come out as a single unit, then you separate them by sliding them aprart.

I had the same issue as you on the fuse box - needed more spaces. I attached a terminal block to the under side of the steering column support, and ran a 14ga wire with an inline fuse from the ACC spade to the block, and then wired new stuff to the terminal block. http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/products/2314

I noticed you have something connected to the top center spade on your fuse box. That is the BATT terminal and is hot at all times.

The ACC terminal is hot with the key in ACC and run positions.

The IGN terminal is hot with key in run and while cranking.
 

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The instrument panel grounds through a strap on that runs to the top center bezel screw. If you're testing it not mounted, make sure you ground that strap.
 

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All the bulbs in the inst cluster are 194.
Follow Al's suggestion for more power.
 

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The top row of bulbs are the instrument lights. The bottom row are the warning and turn signal lights. The turn signal lights are bottom center of each pod. Sometimes, the sockets have to have their contacts bent up to contact the circuit board more firmly. Some cleaning of the circuit board and socket contact areas might be in order, too. Plug contacts, as well... I don't believe the circuit board is "glued" down to the housing. It is held in place by the nuts, harness connector, and sockets.
 
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