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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys I have an odd thing happening. Today I installed a retro sound radio, and a autoMeter temp gauge (finally) in my 68 350 vert and the strangest thing started to happen. Once night fell and the temp droped enough to need the heat I could see that the GEN light was illuminated very slightly when under power, but would go off while idling at stoplights and in park. It seems to be the opposite of what I would expect. Here are the particulars: SB350, TH350, Pertronix Ignition II and flamethrower coil, Internally regulated alt conversion, RetroSound classic radio DVC dash speaker with no amps or subs, I do however have my ignition source for the coil tapped into the spare IGN blade on the fuse block along with my IGN power for the radio. Also what is the GEN light actually monitoring? Is it an ammeter light or a voltage light and is it capable of displaying the severity of the situation by getting incrementally brighter as I am witnessing the beginning of its brightness spectrum? I know its a lot but whatever feedback you all have would be appreciated. :beers:
 

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Check a few things such as voltage at the battery terms while idling, belt tightness/slippage at the Alternator, and the Voltage Regulator. The GEN light is monitoring the health of the system. Look up a few of Everett's for this condition on readings from Alternator, and Voltage Regulator connections.

How old is the battery?
 

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Check all your grounds and connections check your battery and alt with a carbon pile to see if its weak .go over all your rewiring to make sure you didn,t make a mistake. if that gets you nowhere you might want to PM Everett 2390 he is the resident electrician and very sharp on this sort of problems. Good luck Alex:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What amp alt. and what all was running electrically ?

Do you have a multi-meter ?
6

It is an internally regulated 12 si and the stamp on the body of the alternator says 66 Amp. I was running the headlights, heater, retro sound radio, and a autometer gauge. Can the fact that the back-light on the temp gauge is an LED contribute to the issue? It is jumped into the lights for my shifter selector. And Yes I have an multimeter. Let the hunt begin!
 

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LED backlighting won't pull down an electrical system.
Since you stated an internal reg'd conversion, what kind of wirng conversion?
Jumpered the OE voltage regulator connector or an engine harness made specifically for internal reg'd alternator?
You might check all the suggestions given first, grounds are important, especially those from the engine to body and engine to battery. And, a good battery helps, got one to swap out for test? Clean battery posts and clamps are also important.

Check voltage across battery posts with lights and heater off, with them on at 1000 rpm.
The lowest reading should be more than 13.5-13.2 volts with a full load.

Check wiring to alternator. No. 1 is excitement, switched ign voltage. No. 2 is sensing and generally goes to the most tapped connection on the supply wire to the electrical system, I would pu it on the BAT spade of fuse panel, unless you have a junction block for power distribution. Bot fo these two wires should be of fairly good wire gauge size, ie, 14 GA min, 12 GA is better, to cut down on voltage lost from one end of the wire to the other end of the same wire.

Starting out with a started engine, battery voltage will go up to 14.5 volts, maybe, not less than 14.2. As battery becomes more charged and warmer, voltage goes down, generally to 13.8. Voltage should be pretty much maintained at nothing lower than 13.5, maybe, could be as low as 13.2. Naturally, more rpms, more current.

Harbor Freight sells a cheap 50-0-50 ammeter for $10 and can be a useful tool bolted to BATT stud on alt and red wire. I doubt if you will ever see 66 amps.
 
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