Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone got any info on how to get a new set of Cragars(SS) tight ? The instructions that came with them said to torque to 65 ft.lbs yea right! i've got them at 85 right now and after just a little driving I have to stop and re-torque. The lug nuts are mag style and have the Bellville type lock washer.I know the ones we had on the cars when we were kids had the split style lock washer I'm running 15x7 with 219-15 goodyear eagle 2's on the front and 15x8 on the back with 25560R15's. Tossed one of the lugnuts at the guy down the street walking his dog (Don't wanna do that again,was funny though.told him to catch it next time) I saw some pic's on the net here of what happens when a wheel comes off,not pretty.Any one got any suggestions?
thanks David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
662 Posts
1st, what type of car? 65 ibs is way too low. I have a 69 and i torque them to 100. Also, I check the wheel tightness atleast every two weeks. If you just installed the rims for the first time, they should be retorqued w/in 25 miles. The lowest torque I have ever seen, was on a geo metro and it was only 45IBS!!! Most of your newer cars are around 85 and maybe 115 on the rear, but it varies by application.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
21,341 Posts
Buy a cheap "click torque wrench" from say HFT and then use a cheap "Stutvart" or whatever it's called beam torque wrench to check it w/ and go!! I've had my Craftsman "Stutvart" for at least 30 years!!!..........

At least twice!!

Been there, and know what you mean and the problem is that once heated from running on the road the CHECKED values change!!

So do it at least a couple a times for sure!!

pdq67
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Jim's just saying that cause I went with old school 15" rims.He tried to talk me out of it but I'm a 60's kid These thin walled tires don't look like american muscle they look like they oughta be on your Saab LOL. Anyhoo used my digital torque wrench took em up to 90Lbs. Like I said when we were kids we tightend em till we couldn't get anymore-never lost a fender I guess you get old and cautious
oh by the way Jim's car is "Nice" I just wish He'd pump up the tires
David
68 SS Rag TKO600
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,122 Posts
Jim's just saying that cause I went with old school 15" rims.He tried to talk me out of it but I'm a 60's kid These thin walled tires don't look like american muscle they look like they oughta be on your Saab LOL. Anyhoo used my digital torque wrench took em up to 90Lbs. Like I said when we were kids we tightend em till we couldn't get anymore-never lost a fender I guess you get old and cautious
oh by the way Jim's car is "Nice" I just wish He'd pump up the tires
David
68 SS Rag TKO600
ROTFLMFAO!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,331 Posts
With the crager u must use the right lug nuts and washers
As mentioned above 65lb is correct, thu the local crager guys reconmend 85lb and recheck after a couple 100 miles.
If sloted one uses taped lug nuts 1st to center the wheels, not to tight, then replace 1 by one with the correct nuts.
Also make sure the cragers clear the balance tag on drums, and dont have any paint where the rim contacts the drum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Sorry step it's just a little too creative for me are you saying don't use the tapered lugs? and with a 15" ss61 what would you use? let me know
David
68 Rag TKO600
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
22,122 Posts
As far as I know, the 15's are still a "unilug" design, with a slotted hole that will fit a variety of bolt patterns, and a shouldered lugnut.

Step's saying he doesn't trust the shouldered lugnuts to center the wheel properly.

His suggestion to first snug em down lightly with stock type tapered lugnuts to center the wheel properly, then replace them one at a time with the correct shouldered nuts, is a good one.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
285 Posts
Yeah.. what Jim said.... use a unilug lug, one with shank and flat mating surface on the nut part. I always had best luck starting all the lugs, and tighten them all evenly, then loosen and retighten each one. The loosening and retightening seemed to seat the washer properly.

Jon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,331 Posts
Step's saying he doesn't trust the shouldered lugnuts to center the wheel properly.
His suggestion
to first snug em down lightly
No not mine...but the Vice pres of the NZ Muscle Car Club, who also is a highly respected long term branch manager of the largest tyre/wheel/truck wholesaler retailer, wheel alignment company in NZ and Australia...AND owns a very quick '70 Camaro.
All of my post above is his advice....and I didnt take it 1st time I removed a rear wheel...got a very faint 'thump' in the rear...centered to what he said and fine
Credit where credit is due
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
10,144 Posts
I have heard that stainless steel washers tend to come loose!
It seems they are too smooth and don't provide enough friction to the lug nut. Also keep lube to almost none on the threads.
David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Noway David I wouldn't Lube any lug threads I see what step and Jim are saying.I've seen the mechanics at the Power Co. where I work centering truck Rims They get them centered and then spin the tire with a stationary object up close to the treads to check runout(If you've ever driven one of those critters with a out of round tire it'll jar your eye teeth out). I have a Lift here at the house and can do the same thing using the old lugs. The lugs I have for the Cragers are a "Mag" Lug with a shank lenght that Crager recommends I just think I didn't have them tight enough. the old cragers had a split lock washer. These new ones have a Bellville or Cupped washer.The bellville does tend to "flatten" out. I have my eye on them and I'm carrying a Torque wrench in the Trunk.
Thanks Guys Hey Jim pump up those tires yet LOL?
David
68 Rag TKO600
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well
used my old lugs to get the wheels centered.Got the car to the alignment shop and set the front end up.Kids today freak when they look under the hood of the old cars.Took my little buddy 4 hrs to get the front the way I wanted it and thats with me Helping.They still charged me $120.00
I knew I was Screwed when he said "I've seen those shims befor we got them around here somewhere in a bucket" So we got her set up and it drives great done 3 rechecks and the wheels are staying tight
Thanks Guys
David
68 Vert ,350 HO,TKO600,12Bolt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,331 Posts
Got the car to the alignment shop and set the front end up.Kids today freak when they look under the hood of the old cars.Took my little buddy 4 hrs to get the front the way I wanted it and thats with me Helping.They still charged me $120.00
IMAO !!!!
Yeah change the front and thatnalso changes something end up in going in circles....been there done that...
We have the chevy manual, that saoid if use 'x' shim here adjusts 'y' here and here....well it sort of did lol

If u are setting up the ist time after a rebuild, then it can be a mission..
After that as everyting is still close, it doesnt take much

In NZ we can still buy the shim packs, and I do rem seeing them, I think, in the classic camaro cataloge....doesnt hurt to grab a pack...dont cost much and when u need them no problems...IF u rem where u put them safely away.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top