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Discussion Starter #1
I saved and bought all the metal for the car. Now its time to save to build the motor.
Im looking to build a 383 stroker from a 1970 2 bolt main block. I want roughly 440-465hp, same with torque. I arrived on these numbers because i dont ever want to have to work on it again in the future for more power. this will be more than enough. Now i want to keep the compression around 9.5:1-10.1:1. Im going to go all MSD for the ignition, distributor, etc. I want a cam that can offer a real rough idle (thumpr, etc.) This will be running with a M21 and probably 3:08 gears. It will be a street car with very minor strip use. I have come up with other combos but just cant seem to get the right set up. Id like to buy the internals in a kit, same with the top end. Can somebody just give me a blue print to start with? Thanks!

alex
 

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Sounds like you want low comp and a big cam with 308gears, but only want around 450hp and little track use. I say go with a very mild cam so its streetable, it will make better low end and be faster with 308gears.

You could go with a cam in the 220-230 range, make 500tq and 450+hp, have plenty of midrange tq to work with 308s.
 

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A big lumpy cam with 3.08's and a 2.20 first gear will be miserable to drive in any kind of traffic.
 

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A big lumpy cam with 3.08's and a 2.20 first gear will be miserable to drive in any kind of traffic.
I agree, at least 3.55 with the 2.20 first gear.
 

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I agree also. Only I would run about 10 to 1 compression, maybe a little more. Maybe a 108 lsa to give your lope and to build cylinder pressure. This would also help torque a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was figuring more in the 3.55 range as well. 10.1:1 wouldnt hurt. Im looking to see if somebody can give me an exact build up to run so i have something to start fiddling with. thanks!
 

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You combo sounds like my selection but I use 3.73 gear with Tremac. I narrowed down to and got Scat Profiled crank, compstar rods and srp -16cc pistons used with 64cc Afr 195s. The best cam according to DynoSim and Pats program would be a notch back from XR 282 hydra roller, XR274. I am leaning to more performance than sound. I lucked out and found a 10/20 1970 block with stock bore.
 

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Here is a link to a 383 we built for a customer on the TC site
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106715&highlight=DYNO

And using a 2 bolt main block for a 3.750 arm will not be a as dependable as a good 4 bolt block or you can convert yours to splayed caps but first have the cylinders sonic tested to make sure you have a good peice to start with.

Here is a link to look over on a guy that had problems with his 2 bolt block with a 3.750 crank.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652566
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well ill do the necessary machine work. Im looking for somebody to give me a decent 420hp-460hp 383 combo that they think will work well. ill run 10:1 with 3.55gears. Lots of people are giving me combos using the scoggin dickey internal kit, comp extreme cam, etc. I want to see from experience what somebody on this site currently runs. thanks so far for the replies
 

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Heres my 383:

383, 10.8:1
Dynoed [email protected], [email protected] (1 3/4" dyno headers)
Proform HP750
RPM intake
TFS215R heads home ported - 301/236cfm
350 hyd. roller block
Comp 224/224 .568/.568 114LS (smooth idle) hyd. roller
Scat rotating kit, cast steel crank, 5.7 4340 rods, SRP flat tops.

Its in my Luv (3000lbs), more of a work truck, not so much set up for the track.
 

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Here's my (backup race) 383 cid

4-bolt block
cast steel crank
eagle SIR 5.7 rods
Wiseco flattop pistons (Guess around 10.5-1)
Dart Sportsman II iron heads, 64cc chamber, 200cc runners
(Home grown) Minor bowl work, port match
Comp magnum 306 solid cam
1 3/4" super comps 3" dynomax bullet mufflers
Victor jr.
BG Silver Claw carb

Setup is very streetable and runs on 93 octane gas. I run with a powerglide and a "loose" 10" converter with 4.30 gears so that helps a lot on the street and the strip. I guesstimate that it makes about 450 hp, enough to push my 3150 lb 67 to 11.0's with the mufflers on. Idle is the radical thumper that you'd like too. I picked all the parts so I can't give you a "kit" number. These were the parts laying around my garage. Not a bad spare race engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks guys.. ive decided on a nice built 350sbc haha. i appreciate everybodys replies though.
 

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Just my opinion Alex as i have owned a few 350s and built almost 2 years ago my 383. You WILL miss the torque of the extra cubes. I would suggest you rethink your plan. 350s are strong no doubt but for a street driver I think you will be happier with the extra cubes. I just find they work much better for driveability. :beers:
 

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Just my opinion Alex as i have owned a few 350s and built almost 2 years ago my 383. You WILL miss the torque of the extra cubes. I would suggest you rethink your plan. 350s are strong no doubt but for a street driver I think you will be happier with the extra cubes. I just find they work much better for driveability. :beers:
I agree. Building a 383 from the block-up is as cheap as building a 350 these days, and the extra torque of the 3.75" stroke makes a big difference in street car acceleration. I would also strongly suggest you reconsider and go with a 383. I run 400 small blocks myself and would have a real tough time going to a 350 after running these monsters in a street car. Consider a 10:1 383 with Vortec heads, a 235° @ 0.050" hyd FT cam, RPM intake and 750 Holley with a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" header, and I'd say as a WAG you should be around 440-450 HP and 460-480 ft/lbs torque, and it wouldn't cost you an arm and a leg.

I ran a 400 with Vortecs, times in sig. :cool:
 

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I agree. Building a 383 from the block-up is as cheap as building a 350 these days, and the extra torque of the 3.75" stroke makes a big difference in street car acceleration. I would also strongly suggest you reconsider and go with a 383. I run 400 small blocks myself and would have a real tough time going to a 350 after running these monsters in a street car. Consider a 10:1 383 with Vortec heads, a 235° @ 0.050" hyd FT cam, RPM intake and 750 Holley with a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" header, and I'd say as a WAG you should be around 440-450 HP and 460-480 ft/lbs torque, and it wouldn't cost you an arm and a leg.

I ran a 400 with Vortecs, times in sig. :cool:
If i had access to another 400 block i would have gone that route instead of the 383. The cubes help alot. The diff in price from the 350 to 383 was minimal but the outcome was big. IMO.
 

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I had a 383 custom built for my 69 vert. Fairly large cam, 9.5:1, 700R4, 3.73. Good lopey idle but very streetable. MSD off road ignition, hooker super comps, Eldebach endurashine dual manifold, initially a hi-rise single. 750 DP demon.
425HP. All acces. except A/C. Very nice powerplant. For Sale with tranny, less than 4K miles, on both. Made the decision to go FI with LSx- more HP. Sorry for the shameless sales pitch, but a 383 is a nice street engine.
 

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Alex,

Here is the 383 stroker I just had built.

http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=MOV01482.flv

383 stroker
Eagle forged balanced rotating assembly
Edelbrock E-Tec 200 heads
Crane Gold roller rockers, 1.6 I, 1.5 E
Comp Cams Hyd. Roller 562 L., 248 D., 110 CL.
Edelbrock Vortec Air Gap Intake
MSD Pro Billet distributor, 6AL Ignition.
Holley 950HP carb (had a 830HP but gained +21hp with the 950)
10.50 compression
 
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