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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm rebuilding my 8.5 donor rear going from 3.08 open to 3.73 Yukon Posi. Kit includes Koyo bearings M-802011-N and M-88010-N.

I need to set pinion depth. A couple of questions caused me to pause my work.

1. When pressing the big bearing onto the pinion shaft what part of the bearing should get the force applied? I have a 12 ton press so I can set the bearing on the plates for the press and push the gear onto it. Is it ok to just have the bearing lay across the 2 plates and try to get the plates as close to the shaft as possible? Should I use the old race that came out of the housing to hold the bearing together? Or do you push on the outside of the bearing?

2. I got the old pinion shim from the 3.08 gears and planned to use that as my starting point. I planned to use the original bearing as the test by grinding out the ID of the bearing. How close does the test bearing need to be to the new final bearing for that method to work? I think currently they are 0.2 different. what about the smaller pinion bearing? do i need to create a test on that one also how much ID of that bearing needs removed? Should I buy another set of Koyo bearings and hope they are closer than 0.2 to one another?

This is really interesting process, but a little intimidating...

thanks!
Rob
 

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You need to apply pressure to the inner race of the bearing. If you don't then the cage may get damaged and the bearing will fall apart. Then you will be getting a new bearing. I do not like using assembly bearings. When you are shimming the pinion depth you are working with +/- .002 inch, so if the bearings are not exactly the same then you are going to be doing it all over again with you swap bearings. Also, when you press a bearing on you are applying pressure to the shims. If you just slip it on then there is no pressure on the shims and you may get a false reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is there a limit to how much pressing a bearing can take? I heard guys going through the whole deal 5-10 times. If I have to keep removing the bearing and putting it back on is it a bad thing? I would rather not use the assembly bearing if it is ok to keep removing and placing one bearing.
 

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I've pressed them on and off many times. If you are careful and have the right tools it's fine. If you want to use a honed bearing to get close that's fine, but be prepared to press the real bearing on and off a few times to finish getting the pinion depth correct. If you use a honed bearing then use a new one and not the old original one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice. I think I will look carefully at where the pressure is on the bearing when in the press and try using the one bearing.
 

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1969 Camaro Restomod
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Following as I'm planning on going this route myself. Did you go with 28, 30 or more spline axles and whose axles did you use. I've got the 72 Nova donor, bought a 3.42 Motiv ring & pinion set, will either go with a Yukon or possibly Eaton TruTrac. No intended racing, but considering 30-spline axles.-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Following as I'm planning on going this route myself. Did you go with 28, 30 or more spline axles and whose axles did you use. I've got the 72 Nova donor, bought a 3.42 Motiv ring & pinion set, will either go with a Yukon or possibly Eaton TruTrac. No intended racing, but considering 30-spline axles.-Mike
I went with the Yukon Posi and 30 spline Moser axle combination. I'll be running 3.73 with the Tremec TKX 5-speed. I have a '72 Nova rear as well which has multi spring perch and I'll upgrade from the original mono to a Hotchkis 1.5" drop leaf.

Good luck on your swap as well.
Rob
 
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