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Looking for what all I need to ground. Car is a complete redo. I forgot how many and where I took them off a couple years ago. As it currently sits: "not so" painless wiring harness installed and grounded throughout the harness, new motor installed. So, ground the block to the frame, and what else is needed? I bought a grounding kit from Painless, and there's one strap I swear is made for a train! Thing is huge...

Thanks!

Ed
 

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Ed we really need to know what year you are working on. Even different engines have different grounds.

Painless may be your best source for information, seeing it’s their setup.

Roger
 

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Battery ground to engine. Ground strap from engine to body
 
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IDY what year Camaro we are talking about but on my 67 327 there are copper braided straps from body to front clip (near firewall) and thinner ones from firewall to valve covers

-Battery to PS fender & engine block

IDK if there are others but there are likely several ways to provide adequate grounding using aftermarket wiring harness.
 

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Generally a grounding kit for a first gen consists of three bare copper flat cables. The block is grounded by the negative battery cable attached to the alternator bracket at the intake, or the water pump. Any paint beneath the end of the battery cable attachment must be ground down to bare metal. Similarly the block must be ground clean of paint at the point were the stater motor bolts to the block and under the heads (head of starter bolts have an attached washer formed with the head of the starter bolt) of the starter bolts so that there is a good ground for the starter motor.

When building a motor I place on the bare block a dead starter who I keep just to mask where a starter will eventually bolt up; as well as set of stock tin and a set of stock scrap metal heads to prevent over spray. I do this because I am too lazy to mask off the block with tape when painting it. I find it easier and faster to just bolt stuff on an off with a speed wrench or an impact.

There are two cables used to attach to the back of the block via the transmission bell housing bolts (once again grinding off any paint, if present, as paint is an insulator). The other ends attach to the fire wall. One to ground the back half of body. With the other one of those two straps having a pass through bolt that has a similar flat grounding strap behind the firewall to ground the dash at the back of the instrument cluster.

The remaining (third strap) grounds the block to the front sub frame so the head lights and turn signals work correctly. My guess is the heavy grounding strap attches the block to the sub frame.

Big Dave
 

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If it's not a perfect restoration:

1) Battery to Engine
2) Engine to Subframe
3) Engine to Body
4) Body to Subframe
5) Subframe to Rad. Support

Use heavy duty bare braided copper straps with the exception of your negative battery cable which should be of equal size to your POS batt. cable.

If it's a resto, get the Assembly guide.
 

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Thanks Steve I forgot about the sub frame to radiator core support. Without a good ground the voltage regulator and or horn relay will not work properly despite the passenger fender having a sheet metal screw grounding it from the small wire that is part of the negative battery cable. With age the sheet metal screw and the toothed washer loose their grip and provide a poor ground due to that wear.

Big Dave
 

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While this is not addressing the OP's question directly, It is my understanding that originally on something like my 68 Chevy II Nova (and also shown in the below link on a 68 Camaro) is that the braided ground straps, filter capacitor for the voltage regulator, filter capacitor for the coil, and the static collector assembly under the front wheel bearing caps were only in place when a radio was installed. If no radio, no braided ground straps, capacitors, or static collectors.

Page 403 in the below link:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0llMKUpqcpRMVJ5cmVMNTZuUlE/view

I also came across an NOS radio with the install kit and it has the braided straps as well as the capacitors, and static collectors which leads me to believe when no radio was being installed rolling down the assembly line, these parts were not put on and the car worked just fine.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry guys, it’s a 69, and the motor is new built by Smeding Performance. Thanks for all the help info. I’ll check out the AIM as well.
 

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Not a "numbers" car...look above, can't go wrong with too many grounds.
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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Same subject but different - what is the purpose behind the flat braided grounding straps vs. using 1/0 battery cable? I am asking because I have plenty of this cable which I was intending to use but need to make sure I am not missing something important. I always had the opinion the braided straps were used for flexibility because the engine and bellhousing moved a bit.
 

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Flat braided looks better IMO, and not an electrical guru :eek:

I have my ground for battery in trunk next to battery, ground from motor to sub-frame, and ground from heads to body. (may be more I'm forgetting ?)
 

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Al - Waterloo, Iowa
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Same subject but different - what is the purpose behind the flat braided grounding straps vs. using 1/0 battery cable? I am asking because I have plenty of this cable which I was intending to use but need to make sure I am not missing something important. I always had the opinion the braided straps were used for flexibility because the engine and bellhousing moved a bit.
Tim, I don't know for sure but I would go along with your belief of flexibility. The flat cable was
probably cheaper, easier to install, has very low resistance and the connections would stay tight
considering they are attached to sheet metal. It may be difficult with 1/0 cable to attach securely
to sheet metal. Any large cable that I've seen was attached to a bolt (stud).
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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Tim, I don't know for sure but I would go along with your belief of flexibility. The flat cable was
probably cheaper, easier to install, has very low resistance and the connections would stay tight
considering they are attached to sheet metal. It may be difficult with 1/0 cable to attach securely
to sheet metal. Any large cable that I've seen was attached to a bolt (stud).
Al - you are correct. The guy that did my body work and builds pro-touring cars bolts the ground straps through the sheet metal where necessary. I was primarily going this direction because 1. I had the wire 2. I have the lugs and 3. I kind of thought the beefy cables would look cool. All very logical and thoughtful decisions...>:)
 
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