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Discussion Starter #1
Have a issue with hard starting.

Motor has 10.2 compression with a wayyyy to big cam of 290/300 and 232/242 @ .050. Using a mini starter from local speed shop.

Here is what I did.

Stuck my finger over the hole of #1 head and when air blew pass rotate the the motor to 10* before TDC on balancer. Drop dizzy in.

Fired motor up and set timing at 19*/36* with dial back light. Had a hard start and some pinging. Backed off timing to 18*/35* and pinging stopped but the hard start is still there.

Carb is set to idle at 900 rpms.

Is it not getting enough fuel? Need more spark? Plugs and wires have less than 1000 miles on them. Dizzy has around 7000 miles on it.

What do I need to do to get this hard start deal out of there?

I'm lost here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Don

I believe so, but I could be wrong.

Cables are also new, less than 7000 miles.

Ground is OK, but it never hurts to check.

Any particular things or ways I should check this?
 

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What kind of hard start...is it the wa..wa..wa..start like a timing issue or the wawawa start... like Don is saying about the ground or power supply problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The first one. Its long and drawn out. It will turn over alittle, then a drag. This will be 2 to 3 times and then fire.

This has me thinking its a timing issue.

Which is hard for me to understand, because I have always used 34 to 36 degrees of timing with no issue on a SBC.
 

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Does your 0* mark line up with 0 at TDC ?
 

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If you haven't, I think you need to verify your TDC marks.

It seems unusual to get a "labored starter due to timing and/or excessive cranking compression" with your setup at only 18 degrees.

I wouldn't expect this with your cam and static compression. Many with similar or more radical combo's run their timing locked out at 36 and have no problem starting.

Whats your cranking compression in psi?

I've never had a high trust of dialback lights, either.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I think this is the issue. The cam was not degreed in and "true" TDC wsa probably not found.

I will check this in the next day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I went out and played with the timing. I went down to 34* and still got a hard start.

As mentioned the cam was swap with out degreeing or finding true TDC. How far could this timing mark be off? Could it be as much as 5* off?
 

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if the balancer is old, the outer ring could have gone out several degrees...this happens when the rubber ring between the center of the damper, and the outer ring gets old and breaks free of the two...i`d put a stop in #1, turn 1 way until the motor stops turning...(by hand ofcorse)mark the balancer at 0 on the tab...turn the motor in the opposite direction till it stops, and mark the the balancer at 0...measure the center of the 2 marks and thats 0 deg on the balancer...then do yourself a favor if you`re gonna keep the balancer...put a timing tape on it...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I plan on doing that.

The balancer aint that old. Probably less than 10,000 miles on it.
 

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tape and tdc procedure still arent a bad idea...did the labored starting thing just happen???or after a mod???maybe the mini is junk outta the box...
 

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I would drop timing to 12* just to see if starter spins over better.
Checking timing marks is not a bad idea. However, I'd use a Sharpie to mark balancer. I personally never had any luck with tape staying on the balancer, even after cleaning with lacquer thinner.
It could be the mini starter may be drawing too many amps or cables aren't large enough gauge, min 1 AWG. Feeling of the posts and cables for heat will reveal too small cable(s).

Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for replies. I'll try all of them.

Yes, this after a mod. Cam and head change.
 

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Yes. I do know of a couple BBC guys installed a push button switch to open the ignition circuit when poushed so starter could spin engine over easier for a couple seconds, then let go to complete the circuit and engine started.
 

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The one wire from ign switch to distributor behind the dash, before the wire goes through the firewall connector, cut it, installed a switch, they used a "push-for-off" pushbutton switch in the wire and installed same switch on the bottom of the dash, right above the parking brake is a hole for conv top switch.

To start engine, push in on pushbutton to disable ignition, crank ignition switch to start, let engine come up to cranking speed, let go of pushbutton, completing the circuit, ignition voltage to igniton, engine cranks up. No starter drag.
 

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Ever watch close after they say "gentlemen start your engines"?
They have 2 switches, one for starter one for ignition, they flip the starter switch and let er get crankin, then throw the ignition switch, she fires, let go of the starter. Same thiung. Still shouldn't be required.

You shouldn't have hard cranking, and you shouldn't ping at 19 degrees.

Even something as silly as a mismatched timing cover/pointer and balancer could thro the timing reading off 10 degrees.
 
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