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I'm trying to re-install my damper after installing my new cam. I went to the local auto parts store and picked up an installation tool and coated the inside of the balancer with never seize. I'm having a hard time getting the darn thing on, and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a 12'" adjustable wrench to turn the nut, but it's taking all I got to get the thing to move. I removed it with the puller to see if anything was obvious, but don't see anything. Yes it's lined up with the key way, and I saw no metal shavings or anything wrong. Is the never seize the problem?
 

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i'm Not sure if the seize is the problem. Take some emery cloth and go around the shaft. Dont force it as you might strip the threads. That would suck.
 

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Kevin,
I went through the same thing a few months back. I had the balancer install tool and a three foot pipe on the wrench....couldn't get it to budge after the half way point.
So try this......spray some lube on the threads of the removal tool. It worked for me and I managed to get the balancer on with a 12" Cresent Wrench. :thumbsup:

Worked for me!
 

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Some times thay have to be honed and fitted. We seem to hone quite a few of them to fit them.
 

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Some balancers actually come with instructions that tell you that you might actually have to heat the balancer in an oven to get it on the crank.I just used a professional products SFI unit on a bigblock street engine,and I had to put it in the oven at 250 degrees for about a half hour,then run out to the garage with the balancer in oven mits,and set it up on the crank and install it.Talk about hot potato.A machine shop will often hone a balancer when it fits like this,but I dont have any way of doing that with any accuracy,and I am not spending hours of my like making special trips to the machine shop just for a balancer that fits a little tight.Good luck.
 

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Carl, please recommend me a hone I can procure for under a hundred or so and I'll buy it. Until then,,,,,

what Rich said, especially if it just came off.

This Okie hones them with emery though, irregardless of people on the internet saying you shouldn't. Never heard of honing a balancer until the flippin internet came along. That's not aimed at you Carl, but all the internet knowallogist experts. I accept the possibility of(and have experienced) of excessive interference fit and understand the tolerance stack reason that causes it, it's just that the average guy can't do a damthing about it and most machine shops(3 in my bassackwards village) can't either.

Rich, get you a cardboard box and line it with oven mitts. Use your temp gun to make sure the ID of the balancer is 225 or so but not too hot or it may blue or hurt the elastomers.(roller bearings blue just over 275). throw it in the box and cover it with more mitts. buys you a little time and holds a little heat while you go to the engine.
 

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Carl, please recommend me a hone I can procure for under a hundred or so and I'll buy it. Until then,,,,,

what Rich said, especially if it just came off.

This Okie hones them with emery though, irregardless of people on the internet saying you shouldn't. Never heard of honing a balancer until the flippin internet came along. That's not aimed at you Carl, but all the internet knowallogist experts. I accept the possibility of(and have experienced) of excessive interference fit and understand the tolerance stack reason that causes it, it's just that the average guy can't do a damthing about it and most machine shops(3 in my bassackwards village) can't either.

Rich, get you a cardboard box and line it with oven mitts. Use your temp gun to make sure the ID of the balancer is 225 or so but not too hot or it may blue or hurt the elastomers.(roller bearings blue just over 275). throw it in the box and cover it with more mitts. buys you a little time and holds a little heat while you go to the engine.

We are just use to honing them as we use alot of the ATI balancers and all of them are hone to fit and the cranks we buy from King's crankshaft in NC he perposly leaves the snout appox..0005 to .001 biggger.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I kind of like the oven suggestion. BTW, this is the factory balancer that came off. I can hear my wife now when I say I need to use the oven. She will probably think I'm fixin dinner.
 

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Let me see if I have this right.....Kevin is trying to "reinstall" the balancer that he removed from the same engine. There hasn't been any machine work to the balancer or the crank. If he pulled it from the same engine it should go back on the same engine without any machining right?
 

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It should go on, no problem, right? Check to see if it needs a sleeve as well. You're new oil seal on the timing cover will like you for this.

_________________
 

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I havent ever had a problem with an OEM type balancer,and never when reusing the same crank and balancer combo.Make sure the balancer wasnt going on crooked and marred the crank which could make it hard to out on once it is straight.How far is it going on?

BTW,the sleeve being mentioned here is a thin metal collar that comes with some timing cover gasket kits that goes over the outside of the crank hub on the banacer and is used to repair a wear groove on the balancer caused by the front seal.They work well.A little loctite or yellow snot helps them stay put.
 

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I had the same problem.. snapped the installation tool. tried again after heating in the oven to 140-160*, and it went on like butter.

Use never seize on the inside of the balancer and oil the threads on the installation tool.

mike
 

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Sounds like the oven method is easier than the old emery cloth trick I learned in the '60's. And sanding the inside of balancers is the reason they invented snout bolts. Some of us don't know when to stop.
And I like molly grease for this jobs tools.
 

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I had the same problem.. snapped the installation tool. tried again after heating in the oven to 140-160*, and it went on like butter.

Use never seize on the inside of the balancer and oil the threads on the installation tool.

mike
I broke the free rental one when I put mine on too. I got it on though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, I got it on :hurray: I stuck it in the oven at 215 degrees for about 30 minutes. I applied a thin coat of never seize, and after a few turns of the wrench, I tapped it with a rubber hammer, got a few more turns on the wrench, and tapped it again. I kept repeating this until it hit home, tightened the crank bolt to 63 ft lbs., and the pulley to 35 ft lbs. I'm now ready to re-install the intake manifold. Thanks for all the suggestions :beers:
 

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the oven trick works, but you have to be careful not to melt any of the rubber in the damper, so I only heat to about 160*.
 
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