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Discussion Starter #1
Where can I buy a harmonic balancer installer? I can't find one anywhere and I need it asap. I don't want to beat the balancer on with a hammer and a block of wood because we all know that is wrong!!! right?
Please If you know let me know. I'm about to buy it from snap on but I have to order it and I can't really wait. I tried auto-zone, sears, Pep boys, strauss everywhere around here I could think.
 

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thats interesting, I got mine from pep-boys for rent.
another thing u might try, is going up to a shop, and asking a mechanic if you can use theres, and either offer him/her some collateral, or give him/her a few bucks or soem beer....I would prefer the beer.
 
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Tried that and all the guys yell at me and say "you don't need that, you just need a block of wood and a hammer" Then they finish with "thats the way I've always done it" I'll try a different pep boys again and see but if you all have any ideas please let me know. Thanks for the reply though.
 

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Get a 7/16 UNF fine thread Grade 8 bolt about 4-1/2" to 5" long and beg, borrow or buy a tap and thread it to the head. Then just use some heavy washers and a couple a nuts to push the balancer on!

I made a 1/2" one for my BB, too!! They are real cheap and work just fine. I threw them in my tool box for the next time I need them right next to my transmission install. studs made from two SB head bolts w/ their heads ground round for a little extra length. pdq67
 

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How about an early (67) 327. I have a new harmonic balancer, (Streetdamper) but there are no threads in the nose of the crank.

Anyone have an idea what the best way to install this is?
 

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i did something similar to pdq. go to a bolt and screw supplier if you have one in your area. get a piece of 7/16 fine "all-thread", just buy about a foot of it (maybe $4) then get three nuts for it and the largest, thickest washers you can find. thread the all-thread into the nose of the crank. use one nut w/ the washers to push the balancer on, and use the other two nuts on the outside end of the all-thread for back drive to get it out. i learned that little trick here on this wonderful site. $6 beats the hell out of buying a $55 tool.
 

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I must admit I tapped mine on with a 2 X 4. I am very curious, what is the harm in this? It seemed to go all the way on and did not have to be hit hard to get it there. Should I not have done this?
 

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I asked this question in the Engine forum a while back and got all kinds of good responses. However, after searching and searching for a install tool less than $50, I gave up.

Got some grease,
Got some anti-seize,

And in the words of the great Happy Gilmore, "Just taaaap it in. Just a little tappy, a little tap, tap, tap-a-roo"

- problem solved.

[This message has been edited by englemac (edited 09-14-2001).]
 
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Discussion Starter #10
lola68rag, Thank you very much. Worked perfect. $2.68


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<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>1979 Z-28, 350- Edelbrock Performer RPM Package- TH350
<LI>1970 Cadillac Hearse - 472 BB automatic 375hp
<LI>2000 Gmc Sonoma - 5-speed 4.10 rear
[/list]
 

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Gee thanks guys...you post this stuff shortly after I just bought a $45 Moroso balancer installer from summit


The reason your not supposed to use a hammer on the balancer is because it supposedly beats the heck out of the rear main bearing. Honestly though, I have done a great many this way and never had any problems.

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375hp 78 Chevy truck
77 Chevy Nova
95 Chevy Lumina 3.4L
and building a 78 Nova
 
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I don't want to beat them on anymore because I saw what happens when one breaks. In the line at the track this dude was waiting to run and he just beat his new balancer on. Well the thing launched off when he reved the engine. Tore through the radiator and right into the trunk of the guy in front of him. Not a pretty scene. The guy in front of him wasn't to happy either.
 

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xodus,
don't mention it. i think i got that trick from CarlC. i just passed along what i've learned

tybor
 
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