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I was thinking of using Teflon tape on my new head bolts in lieu of Silcone or Permatex...
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This is a highly debated topic, as far as teflon tape goes, but from what I have read, teflon tape itself does not have any sealing properties. It works with tapered pipe thread to lubricate them to allow you to tighten the joint more, which mechanically seals the joint.

So, take it for what it's worth...... but I would use the appropriate Permatex sealant.

Jon
 

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I have seen two engines with leaks at the head bolts where the builders tried teflon tape ...

I have always used GM #1050026 Sealer (or Pematex #2 if none was available) on the bolts and never had a leak or problem.
At @$12.oo a can it's pretty cheap insurance ;)

BTW - you didn't indicate SB or BB, be aware that some of the later BB/502 type blocks (and some of the aftermarket performance blocks) have 'blind' holes and you Do Not want to use sealer on these holes!
Use a wire or probe to test the holes to be sure they are not blind if you don't have a block diagram available.
 

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Never had a leak with the Permatex teflon Thread sealent in a tube. But the Key is to chase out all the block threads with a tap and spray brake cleaner in the threads and a good wire brush'n of the bolts with a good brake cleaner wash. (also add a drop of oil to point where the head bolt contacts the head surface, won't help seal but will provide better true and consistant torque).

Good Luck!!:thumbsup:
 

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Never had a leak with the Permatex teflon Thread sealent in a tube. But the Key is to chase out all the block threads with a tap and spray brake cleaner in the threads and a good wire brush'n of the bolts with a good brake cleaner wash. (also add a drop of oil to point where the head bolt contacts the head surface, won't help seal but will provide better true and consistant torque).

Good Luck!!:thumbsup:
I use that too.
 

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I think on all but 4 bolts if I remember right. I still use it on all the head bolts so my torque spec doesn't need to be changed. (all the same)
 

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Use good old Permatex, "Indianhead Shellac Gasket Cement" in the little brown shoe polish dauber bottle and go!!

A daub on the threads and a schosh under each head!!

pdq67
 

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Never had a leak with the Permatex teflon Thread sealent in a tube. But the Key is to chase out all the block threads with a tap and spray brake cleaner in the threads and a good wire brush'n of the bolts with a good brake cleaner wash. (also add a drop of oil to point where the head bolt contacts the head surface, won't help seal but will provide better true and consistant torque).

Good Luck!!:thumbsup:
I'm ready to put my freshened heads back on my 410. All bolts holes were cleaned with a cleaning tap and then a wire brush. When you mention using brake clean is it for the bolts or block? I wouldn't think I'd want to squirt that stuff down the block hole. I have the GM stuff to coat the bolt threads and seal 'em up but do want to only do this once. TIA.
 

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I used ARP thread sealer on my head studs and have not had any issues at all.
 

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I had good results in the past with ARP sealer, this time (because I have some) I'm going to use GM 1050026 sealer. My remaining question is if people really spray carb cleaner down the bolt hole as I interpret tfultz' note? Thanks for all the inputs!
 

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I have to admit that I did spray carb cleaner in the holes after I cleaned the threads out. I also changed the oil when I was finished to remove any cleaner that may have got in the oil. Also used new coolant.
 

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permatex aviation form-a-gasket
Second this, along with a "thread chaser" in the head bolt holes. A thread chaser is different from a tap. A tap has a cutting action and can damage threads a thread chaser has reliefs in the treads so they will clean as it goes and not cut new threads. Snap-On sells the entire set and it worth the money it can be used on anything else on your car to freshin up holes.

I also spray brake cleaner in the holes and use brake cleaner exculsivly on gasket surfacs etc. Brake cleaners do not leave a surface residue or have any type of lubricant in them like carb cleaners do, spray some on a piece of metal see what happens if you don't wipe it off. THe carb cleaner will leave a white residue.

The form-a-gasket will lube your threads and all you have to do is apply a little the head bolt threads before intalling. The bottle has a brush attached to the cap. Before installing I squirt a little lube/oil around/under the head bolts and install to hand tight. I torque the heads in 3 stages bringing up the torque to the final. Let it sit for 5 minutes and come back and go over the pattern one more time.

Joe
 

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Good clarification. I actually did use a thread chaser.
 

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I need to clarify the above a little....sorry.

I should add this a bare block build. If you apply a little grease to the thread chaser if you have an assembled engine it will retain all the "gunk and junk" and just clean it off with brake cleaner after each hole. Also for an assembled engine, a gun cleaning pad on the gun gleaning rod sprayed with brake cleaner will sufice for cleaning holes. This works great on intake holes and other places also. A gun cleaning kit can be bought really cheap at pawn shops.
 

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Your a mind reader, Joe. My machinist gave me what looked like a miniature metal bristle brush and said to first use a cleaning tap, then use the brush in a reversible drill and go in/out a few times in each hole. Thanks again.
 

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Oh man! I read this whole thread only to find that everything I was going to say was said! Well, except for one thing. (you knew that was coming)
I'm replacing all of my teflon tape jobs with Permatex#2 when each teflon seal leaks. And it's a sure thing, it seems. Of course I would never use anything but #2 on my headbolts in the first place.
 

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I need to clarify the above a little....sorry.

I should add this a bare block build. If you apply a little grease to the thread chaser if you have an assembled engine it will retain all the "gunk and junk" and just clean it off with brake cleaner after each hole. Also for an assembled engine, a gun cleaning pad on the gun gleaning rod sprayed with brake cleaner will sufice for cleaning holes. This works great on intake holes and other places also. A gun cleaning kit can be bought really cheap at pawn shops.
With the rifle cleaning kit , you also need run the large bore wire tips( 45 cal ) thru lifter oil gallies, all the way out the other side and it would not hurt to run the smaller tips (22 cal ?) thru the block main passages. Also knock out the 1/2" cup leading from the oil pressure sender down into the block. Don't forget to put a new plug back in hole.
All lifter galley plugs in front need to be pipe tapped and replugged. Watch out how deep the center front upper plug goes in , it intersects with the front main oil hole. You can never get the block too clean.
 
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