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Should I buy the cooper gaskets or just use the paper ones I got with my headers? Has anyone tried these cooper ones yet? Seem like a good idea to me. Well let me know. I'm gonna try and put them on today. Thanks all

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<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>1979 Z-28, 350- Edelbrock Performer RPM Package- TH350
<LI>1970 Cadillac Hearse - 472 BB automatic 375hp
<LI>2000 Gmc Sonoma - 5-speed 4.10 rear
[/list]
 

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Copper would fine.



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Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
 

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Copper do seem to be a good idea, but in my experience they don't work very well and even though they say they're re-usable, they aren't, once they are flat there done. If you want your gaskets not to leak, get yourself some Permatex Red high temp RTV. Put in on both sides of the gastket, torque down your headers and don't run the car for 24 hours. Tighten your header bolts every so often at first, after awhile they'll stay tight. I've used this method several times, no leaks.

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68 468 700R4, and here it is;
mutert23
 

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Get Felpro exhaust gaskets for a 4th gen. LT1 Camaro. They are a steel type gasket, that once trimmed to fit our old heads and headers, will work for a long time w/o leaks.

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69 Chevelle SS
Camaro Parts Network, http://www.camaro1.com
 

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I tried the copper ones from SCE with brand new hedman headers on a new crate motor. They didnt work. I dont think SCE has a bad product, I think the header flange was'nt flat enough. I used the asbestos ones that came with the headers and some hi temp rtv. So far so good
 

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for head to header I use a set of exhaust manifold gaskets ,bit of a pain to put on but they work well!,and beats 34.95 for some of the header gaskets.
 

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The copper didn't work for me....
 

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You only need the coppers if you blow out the paper/shim ones. And yes I've seen it done, burnt em to a crisp and shot em out. In that case they worked well. I also saw the same engine put a hole in a 2.5" pass side turbo muffler.
 

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xodus,
I use the Fel-Pro stock gaskets, the kind you put under iron manifolds, they're metal-bestos design. I have never had one leak, ever. Used them on all kinds of high compression small blocks and big blocks. A couple things you can do is to true the header flange surface with a file and the same goes for the heads. You'd be surprised how distorted some of the headers are right out of the box, I'm not using cheap headers either. On small blocks I cut the bar off of the flanges so I end up with 4 individual primary tubes and they can move individually slightly when torquing the bolts. I've never had a header crack from doing this and if you spend a little time grinding the flanges down they'll look like they came this way and the motor looks 100% less cluttered once that ugly flange bar is gone.

[This message has been edited by SY1 (edited 09-23-2001).]
 
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