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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. Whats the best way to install the driver's side header on a '68 with power steering and a manual transmission? I already pulled the spark plugs. I'm thinking I need to remove the Z-bar, the return spring, and possibly the oil filter, then bring the header in from underneath. I don't really want to jack the motor up, and it looks like if I remove the power steering gearbox and put the header in, it will be hard to get the gearbox back in... I'm asking because I don't want to scratch up the ceramic coating on the new headers. Thanks for any help in advance. Todd


P.S. They are dynomax headers.
 

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take out the plugs, and get the Z-bar out of the way. maybe the oil filter- but maybe not. slide it up from underneath. the Dynomax headers-from what i've read around here- are a bit more forgiving around the steering box, so no "clearancing" is needed. my old set fit great, but i have a factory 307 car, which has different mounts than the 350. it should go in pretty easy and have about 1/2" clearance around the box with the 350 mounts.
the pass side literally drops in from the top.
 

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I have the same setup. When I put mine in I found it easier to remove the driver's side motor mount thru-bolt. Then I put a chain on the driver's side head front to back and lifted the engine just a bit on that side. It pivoted on the other motor mount bolt and the header slid in real easy. Of course at the time I still hadn't hooked up radiator and shroud.
 

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I put my headers, on the drivers side from underneath, with no problems. I installed the Dynomax coated first, then I switched to the Hookers. Both installed this way with no problems. I do have 350 frame mounts.
 

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Although I don't have power steering or a manual tranny, I put mine up on ramps to gain extra ground clearance and everything went in from the top. Just an idea, if you haven't tried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help everyone. I put it on after moving the z-bar and taking the plugs and temp sender(console gauges) out. I thought for once, I would be able to install headers(all the prevous installs were automatics, this was my first on a manual tranny)without draining any coolant. On previous cars,the aftermarket temp sender was hardwired to the gauge, so it had to come out for the install. This time I got a little excited because I thought I could unclip the wire and leave the sender in place. But then it seemed to come down to a battle between the sender and the Z-bar stud, neither allowing the wiggle room to move the header up and into position. I thought about removing the z-bar pivot stud, but I thought with my luck, It will break, so out came the temp sender and it's a good time to flush the system, right? (Even though I just did it last year). At that point the header went up and in place. I have to say, I'm very impressed with the fit of the Dynomax headers. It's a great design, with a perfect fit around the power steering gearbox(3/8" clearance)and the ability to spin the collector flange will give added ground clearance on the driver's side. They appeared to be jet-hot coated on the inside as well as the outside. My only complaint is that I wish they would have been a bit more thorough coating the outside as there are some small(but noticable to me)lightly coated spots. But I would buy them again, and recommend them. Thanks again. Oh, and definitely cover them with rags or something during the install, or it will play havoc on the coating.
Todd
 
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