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I just bought a pair of Hooker headers and I am having one hell of a time getting the driver's side header around the power steering box. Does anyone know if I have remove the motor mounts and lift the engine in order to get it in. They are supposed to fit, per Hooker, but you know how that goes. I think the hammer is going to have to come out. Ouch!!!
 

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i am assuming the headers you have are supercomp.. and yes.. the best way believe it or not is to lift to motor up on that side. alittle and it will slide right on .. or try bringing it up from the bottom assuming the car can be raised enough.. the hammer is never good because where ever you hit it will cause a weak spot that over time will crack ..

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Make sure and use a board ontop of your jack to distribute the weight. Another good tip is to remove the oil filter before you start. You didn't state if it is a big block or small. With my big block there is NO way the headers are going in from the top. Good luck!
 

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I have been working on putting 2" hooker super comps on my '69 BB Camaro and it has
taken me about 25 hours to get them in. I had to jack the car up about 12" and also lift the motor up and forward. I also have
ARP headbolts so I had to grind notches in the flanges to clear the bolts. You know the process put them in, check, takem out, grind
repeat about 10 times. The clutch z-bar is very close but will work. A very time consuming process but it can be done.
 

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If it takes that long I would pull the motor lay the headers in and then put the motor back. If there is a fit problem to the head I would put the engine on the stand and do that first. I know this frustration first hand from my 68 chevelle's headers(BBC) and just looking at my BB camaro the motor will come out before I even think about doing anything with it's super comps. Good Luck.

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Jeff
69 SSRS 396(roller 427 :D )
My Chevs
 

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Dino:

I just installed a set of 1 5/8" DynoMax headers in my '69 small block car. While I was at it, I pulled the p/s box and had it rebuilt (very sloppy & starting to leak). The header slipped in from under the vehicle with NO problems (p/s box, oil filter, reverse lockout mechanism & rod and z-bar removed). To my surprise, the p/s box easily went back in with the header installed! For the 20 minutes it'll take to remove the p/s box, I'd try it out if I were you. Hope it helps!
 

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I think Glen is on the right track. I'm in the process of putting new heads on my car. I took me the better part of 2 hours to get those stupid super comps out. I removed the whole top end and heads in the time it took me to get the driver side header out. I did the method described by Vyking67, it sucked. When they go back in I think I'm just going to pull the steering box, 2 bolts seems easier than fighting with the engine and the Jack.

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Shawn Peterson
1969 Z28, 406SB
http://www.geocities.com/corsican69
 

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This may or may not be obvious but the best way to install the Driver's side header is from beneath the car. Tilt the header up at a 45 degree angle from beneath the car to help clear it around your power steering. Once the header clears the power steering box, turn it back parallel and it SHOULD slide right on.

The passenger side header is more easily installed from the top side of the car. Still though, insert in collector at 45 degree angle and turn it after it clears starter. You may have to remove the starter first. If you do not have a lift, the car will need to be approximately two feet off the ground for this procedure to work properly.
 

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If you are working on a small block, the previous post is right on the money. I have installed DynoMax headers on a '67 camaro with everything in place except the oil filter, alternator and spark plugs. The driver side will slip into place from the bottom but you must have the car up in the air quite some distance. I secured mine to with jackstand at the maximum plus 4" of boad under them as well. The power steering pump is very close to touching the header however, and if you do not have good motor mounts in place, it will touch under engine torque. If so, you can massage the metal in this area, (don't strike with a hammer in one big blow or the area will crack later) or replace motor mounts. Good Luck
 
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